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Finding the Forgotten Feast

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Duck Stock

Cappelletti pasta in duck stock
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Duck stock is a foundational ingredient in my kitchen.

As a duck hunter, I want to use as much of every animal I bring home as I can, from beak to feet. That means I roast a lot of duck carcasses for stocks.

The process is easy: Roast your carcasses, ideally with a little meat on them, until well browned — about 1 hour at 400°F. Then put the bones in a stockpot, cover with water and simmer very gently for as long as you can stand it, up to overnight.

Pro tip: Wet down your roasting pan with water, scrape all the browned bits off it with a wooden spoon, then add it to the stockpot for added flavor.

I generally only add vegetables late in the game, usually the last 2 hours or thereabouts. This keeps their flavors brighter and more distinct. If you put everything in at once, it’ll be fine, but a bit muddied in flavor.

When you strain your stock, I set a strainer over a big bowl, then set a paper towel in the strainer. I then ladle the stock through this, which keeps it very clear.

You can keep your duck stock in the fridge for a week or so, or you can freeze it for a year. I often pressure can my stock, too. I can it for 20 minutes at 10 PSI, but follow your pressure canner’s directions.

A bowl of cappelletti pasta swimming in duck stock.
Print Recipe
5 from 7 votes

Duck Stock

I make a variety of duck stocks, broths and consommes, and this is the one I make the most. You roast the duck or goose bones, and roast the veggies, too. Make this broth when you have a day off, as it takes all day. The good news is you will be rewarded with a gallon or more of rich stock that is a perfect base for stews, soups or wintertime risottos or polenta.
Prep Time15 mins
Cook Time4 hrs
Total Time4 hrs 15 mins
Course: Soup
Cuisine: French
Servings: 20 servings
Calories: 13kcal
Author: Hank Shaw

Ingredients

  • 3 to 5 pounds duck or goose carcasses, include wingtips, neck, and hearts if possible
  • Salt
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, chopped
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 1 fennel bulb, chopped (optional)
  • 20 to 30 duck or goose feet or 1 pig's foot (optional)
  • 1 large sprig rosemary
  • 2 teaspoons dried thyme
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, cracked
  • 1 tablespoon juniper berries, crushed (optional)

Instructions

  • Chop the carcasses and various duck bits -- except for the feet, if using and salt them well. Arrange in a large roasting pan in one layer if possible; leave out the feet. Roast in a 400°F oven until well browned.
  • If you have duck feet, chop them with a cleaver or heavy knife to break the skin and expose the joints and bones. There is collagen in the feet that will seep into the water and give the finished broth more body. Put the duck feet into the pot you are making the stock in. If you're using a pig's foot, just put it into the pot.
  • When the duck bits are browned, put into the large stockpot and cover with cold water leaving about 2 to 3 inches of room at the top of the pot. If the roasting pan has a lot of fat in it, drain it off. Add some more water to the roasting pan and scrape up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add this to the stockpot.
  • Cover the pot and bring it to a boil, but as soon as it hits a boil, drop the heat to a bare simmer and move the pot lid slightly ajar. Let this cook very, very gently -- more steaming than simmering -- for as long as you can handle. I let it go overnight.
  • When you are ready to add the vegetables, toss them all in and stir to combine. Note that this is the only time you stir this stock. Let them simmer gently for 2 hours.
  • Turn off the heat and strain the stock. I do it this way: I set up a big container for the strained stock, like a big Tupperware tub. Over this I set a strainer, and in the strainer I lay a piece of regular paper towel. Now, using a ladle, ladle out your stock so it strains through the paper towel. Doing it this way keeps the stock clear.
  • Your broth is ready now. Salt it to taste, adding a little at a time. You can further concentrate flavors by simmering the strained stock for as long as you'd like. Check every 15 minutes or so.
  • Pour into Mason jars and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks, or freeze for up to 9 months. If you freeze, leave at least 1 1/2 inches of headspace in the jars or they will crack. You can also pressure can your stock at 10 psi for 25 minutes (follow your canner's directions for this).

Notes

You can of course use this recipe for any goose. This recipe makes about 5 quarts. 
If you are working with smelly ducks, like sea ducks, spoonies or many divers, you will want to remove as much fat as you can and all the skin. That is the source of off flavors. 

Nutrition

Calories: 13kcal | Carbohydrates: 3g | Protein: 1g | Fat: 1g | Saturated Fat: 1g | Sodium: 14mg | Potassium: 93mg | Fiber: 1g | Sugar: 1g | Vitamin A: 1059IU | Vitamin C: 2mg | Calcium: 15mg | Iron: 1mg
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Avatar for Chad LowChad Low says

    February 22, 2022 at 2:23 pm

    It took me a few years to get there, but I finally have 20 something quarts of this on hand at all times. Sometimes I make the burlier one with the tomato paste from BBM, sometimes the regular. But I am here to tell you, having something of this quality on hand is absolutely priceless. We use it in soups, stews, sauces, and even drink it straight out of a mug like coffee for a collagen boost, or if under the weather, or a bug starts going around, or just for nothing more than shits and giggz.

    Reply
    • Avatar for Chad LowChad Low says

      February 22, 2022 at 2:27 pm

      Ooops, I copied and pasted my comment from the venison broth, and forgot to delete the tomato paste statement. So no, I don’t make any other versions of this other than the one in DDG.

      Reply
  2. Avatar for Frank WilkFrank Wilk says

    January 31, 2022 at 8:24 am

    Hi Hank, made a variation of this over the weekend and the stock was outstanding. I didn’t have juniper berries, used bok choy to make up for no fennel and added one head of smashed garlic. I also reduced the step 5 to one hour because I learned long ago that in one hour you can pull the out best of any goodness in vegetable after one hour that flavorless veggie starts acting like a sponge extracting the good nutrients from your stock to a point it starts to become bitter and quickly. Vinegar helps to moderate that bitterness but will not return the lost nutrients. My stock included raw carcass, neck and some bones from partially cooked duck and was a clear dark chocolate color in the end. Thanks for a fantastic website.

    Reply
  3. Avatar for MunninMunnin says

    January 5, 2022 at 7:27 pm

    Hi Hank, love your site. Your recipes have been so helpful. We are a young family raising our own meat on 8 acres in Canada, just started this year. Your website is an unmatched resource, seriously thank you.

    We raise Muscovies and I’d like to use the feet for stock.

    Do you peel your duck feet before using? And how so? Scalding seemed to make the skin come off but not easily (although they likely had been scalded too briefly).

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      January 6, 2022 at 7:56 am

      Munnin: Nope, I just rinse them off and toss them in. Hours and hours in near-boiling water seems to cure any ills that might be present.

      Reply
  4. Avatar for LiciaLicia says

    November 26, 2020 at 9:01 pm

    Do you add the herbs with the vegetables, or add them at the beginning?

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      November 27, 2020 at 7:39 am

      Licia: With the vegetables.

      Reply
  5. Avatar for GiGi says

    November 14, 2020 at 6:12 pm

    Hank! You’re the coolest! I will make this stock with the 5 ducks I was recently gifted. Would you recommend removing the skin prior to roasting the carcasses and rendering the fat from them like you recommend with the tail or leaving the skin on through the roasting and stock-making process? Thanks in advance!

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      November 15, 2020 at 8:07 am

      Gi: I remove it and render the fat separately.

      Reply
  6. Avatar for FrejaFreja says

    December 22, 2019 at 1:29 am

    Can you use leaftover duck meat in the stock?

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      December 22, 2019 at 3:25 pm

      Freja: Yes you can.

      Reply
  7. Avatar for KathiKathi says

    October 6, 2019 at 12:39 pm

    What about the duck’s head…. can you tell me what to do with it – can I roast and through in?

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      October 6, 2019 at 12:51 pm

      Kathi: I’ve never used a duck’s head because I don’t pluck them that high up. But if you had a plucked duck’s head it would work in stock.

      Reply
  8. Avatar for BenBen says

    October 21, 2017 at 7:54 pm

    Hi Hank!

    We’retrying this recipe for the first time tonight. Juat curious why you advise against using livers in the stock.

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      October 23, 2017 at 3:42 pm

      Ben: Because it will discolor the stock and add an unpleasant livery flavor.

      Reply
  9. Avatar for Chad LowChad Low says

    March 2, 2017 at 2:18 pm

    So I am finishing up a monster batch. Had a 22 qt stock pot and a 24 qt stock pot so stacked with bones and feet that I could barely get the water an inch deep with a reasonable margin. I’d like to think that I have a fair bit of experience with stock making by now. But the last couple batches I have made, something kinda funny happens. After I have sifted and strained out all the solids, and start reducing it down to my desired concentration, my stock starts to develop, well, floaties, for lack of a better word. They aren’t necessarily floating on the surface, so much as churning around throughout the stock. Almost like solids are precipitating back out into the stock. I strained it through a paper towel so there couldn’t be anything left in it, but seeing my stock plum full of these things is a little off putting. Visually at least. It still tastes fantastic of course. I can strain the stock again, but it’s almost like they dissolve, Last batch I strained it right before I pressure canned, and they developed again after canning… Is it how many bones and feet I used? Any idea what is causing this?

    Reply
  10. Avatar for Vojt?ch CukorVojt?ch Cukor says

    November 29, 2016 at 8:00 am

    Thanks for the recipe. I have made it multiple times with great results. I have one question. Could one also add the heads? I know that many people add chicken heads to chicken stock. Do you have any experience with that sort of thing?

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      November 29, 2016 at 9:39 am

      Vojtich: Nope. I don’t have experience with the heads, but I am guessing it shouldn’t be a problem.

      Reply
  11. Avatar for Jon CJon C says

    November 26, 2016 at 5:10 pm

    Thanks for the awesome recipe! I really like the fact that you get to use some of the other, less popular, parts of the ducks or geese.

    Reply
  12. Avatar for Chris JChris J says

    October 8, 2016 at 8:04 pm

    Seriously…who has 6-8 duck carcasses laying around? I buy frozen organic ducks every couple of weeks and need to Butcher them myself, and until our hearts me is finished next year, keeping and saving all the carcasses isn’t practical. Even with a big enough second ref, it’s a problem.

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      October 9, 2016 at 12:08 pm

      Chris J: Hunters. Our daily limit is 7 birds, and we get this often.

      Reply
  13. Avatar for ArtyArty says

    September 20, 2016 at 2:24 pm

    Not sure what Ben meant by “not worth the time investment”, since there isn’t much a guy has to do except for parting some geese/ducks and peeling some vegetables. Yeah, it takes a while but all one has to do is mind their own business letting the heat do its thing. Nothing else you can do with those carcasses, necks, etc. anyway. So either a waste or some pretty good stock.

    Made some stock yesterday from the “leftovers” of a few white-fronted geese and a couple of pintails shot a few days ago. Turned out to be pretty darn good. Thanks for the recipe, Hank! I skipped the roasting part due to reading the recipe after the boiling had already began, but will definitely try it next time!

    By the way, what does roasting exactly do? Adds to flavour, I assume?

    Thanks, Hank!

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      September 20, 2016 at 2:26 pm

      Arty: Yes, it adds a lot of flavor.

      Reply
  14. Avatar for Chad LowChad Low says

    December 17, 2015 at 2:33 pm

    Looking to stock up on some stock this year. Can you water bath can the stock, or does it need to be done in a pressure cooker?

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      December 17, 2015 at 3:46 pm

      Chad: No. You must pressure can stock.

      Reply
  15. Avatar for Ben RicheyBen Richey says

    April 27, 2014 at 6:27 pm

    I agree with Tom, this is the first recipe from your site that has not been outstanding. I ended up with about a quart of stock, colored dark orange. I am not sure if by “clear stock” you meant the color of the stock or it being free of sediment. The stock tastes good, but not worth the time investment.

    Reply

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Hank Shaw holding a rod and reel in the American River

Hi, my name is Hank Shaw. I am a James Beard Award-winning author and chef and I focus my energies on wild foods: Foraging, fishing, hunting. I write cookbooks as well as this website, have a website dedicated to the intersection of food and nature, and do a podcast, too. If it’s wild game, fish, or edible wild plants and mushrooms, you’ll find it here. Hope you enjoy the site!

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