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Finding the Forgotten Feast

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Confit, Rillettes, Terrines

Close up of duck rillettes.
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

This is something of a grab bag category, where you will find various sausage-like or cured things that are not really dry aged, nor fermented like salami.

Confit is essentially slow poaching in oil or fat, rillettes are a rough pâté — when I make pâtés they will be in this category, too. I also included coppa di testa, or headcheese, because it is considered part of the overall charcuterie craft. Unlike confit or rillettes, however, coppa di testa does not keep for a long time. Eat it within a week or so.

Close up of duck confit in the pan.

Duck Confit

Start here. Duck confit is a basic skill anyone even remotely interested in cooking ducks or geese should know. It will make even the oldest, gnarliest Canada goose leg tender and wonderful — and just think what it can do for a domestic duck or goose.

Read More about Duck Confit

pheasant confit recipe

Pheasant Confit

A slightly different cure for making confit of pheasant or other upland game birds. Same basic process as with duck, only a different cure.

Read More about Pheasant Confit

duck gizzard confit on a plate

Duck Gizzards Confit

Duck, goose, turkey or chicken gizzards slowly cooked in duck fat, then seared with wild mushrooms.

Read More about Duck Gizzards Confit

Wild Duck or Goose Rilletes

Slow-cooked duck or goose legs and wings, pulled from the bone and pounded with more duck fat, brandy and herbs. An especially awesome used for skinned goose legs from birds like Canadas or snow geese.

Read More about Wild Duck or Goose Rilletes

You’ll want to read this primer on how to make rillettes before diving into the specific recipes for various fish or meats.

salmon rillettes

Salmon Rillettes

The key here is the combination of both smoked and freshly poached salmon or trout. A great, easy canape for a party… or for watching the game.

Read More about Salmon Rillettes

Smoked bluefish pate on crusty bread.

Smoked Bluefish Pate

Smoked bluefish mashed into a rough pâté or rillette, this is a winner on crackers. One of my go-to appetizers when I can get my hands on bluefish. Mackerel, wahoo, skipjack tuna or jacks work well here, too.

Read More about Smoked Bluefish Pate

homemade scrapple recipe

How to Make Scrapple

Scrapple means breakfast in the mid-Atlantic states, and this is a traditional recipe for it. Various pork bits, cornmeal, buckwheat flour, pressed into a loaf and then sliced and fried.

Read More about How to Make Scrapple

A slice of wild game terrine with pickles

Game Terrine

A lovely terrine for a party or the holidays, made with a variety of game you happen to have in your freezer at the time.

Read More about Game Terrine

Overhead view of an English duck pie

English Duck Pie

Not exactly a confit or a rillette, but this sturdy meat pie will last 10 days in the fridge. It’s so solid you can  bring it to the duck blind.

Read More about English Duck Pie

fromage du tete recipe

Fromage de Tete

A French version of headcheese, made from a wild pig’s head. This is a pretty easy version to make, and can also be done with the heads of deer, goats and lamb.

Read More about Fromage de Tete

wild boar coppa di testa

Coppa di Testa

This is the Italian version of headcheese, stuffed in a casing. I make this with wild boar, but you could also make it with any animal; a young deer is a good alternative.

Read More about Italian Head Cheese

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Comments

  1. Avatar for MikeMike says

    July 3, 2018 at 4:33 am

    I’m wondering about smoking a pheasant then trying to turn into rilletes. Not sure when I’d combine the fat in, or whether to pack the cooked pheasant in and then top with hot butter and jar.

    Reply
  2. Avatar for GahanGahan says

    September 24, 2017 at 6:57 am

    Hank:
    Really like your site. I would really like to try the recipe for the “Corned Gizzards and Cabbage” but both the “Read More” and Title link take you to the recipe for “Corned Gizzards Confit”. I imagine that both recipes are pretty similar but thought I would report this issue for proper linking to the recipe.

    Reply
    • Avatar for Hank ShawHank Shaw says

      September 24, 2017 at 8:13 am

      Gahan: I combined the recipes.

      Reply
  3. Avatar for greg kvalegreg kvale says

    February 4, 2014 at 1:32 pm

    Hank,
    I just completed curing and vacuum packing my confit. Not cooked yet. I have more than I can use and would like to freeze some. Is it advisable and if so at what piont in the process can it be frozen?
    Greg

    Reply

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Hank Shaw holding a rod and reel in the American River

Hi, my name is Hank Shaw. I am a James Beard Award-winning author and chef and I focus my energies on wild foods: Foraging, fishing, hunting. I write cookbooks as well as this website, have a website dedicated to the intersection of food and nature, and do a podcast, too. If it’s wild game, fish, or edible wild plants and mushrooms, you’ll find it here. Hope you enjoy the site!

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