This venison steak recipe tastes as good as it looks.
I had a little bit of red deer steak a friend had given me this past January left in my freezer, so I decided to cook it before I got to the backstraps from the deer I shot this season. Red deer, as you can see, are basically elk. Beefier than American deer and much larger. What to serve it with?
Rather than riff off an existing venison steak recipe, I decided to do the ole’ refrigerator roulette. I found some caramelized onions I’d made a day or so before, and I had some fantastic hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. If you’ve never had hen-of-the-woods, they’re also known as maitake — or Grifola frondosa for the Latin-inclined. They are a brownish-gray tree mushroom that lives in many places, California not among them.
To my mind, they are the best-eating mushroom that doesn’t live in Cali: Firm, aromatic, they sear well and have a mild, mushroomy flavor that’s addicting. And like almost every shroom, they go great with caramelized onions.
Steak. Mushrooms. Caramelized onions. Classic and bangin’. But the dish needed a “green thing,” as my mum likes to call it. Parsley’s a given, and since we’ve finally had some rain here in NorCal, I decided to go outside and pick some dandelion greens to toss in there. Bitter greens really balance the richness of everything else on the plate. So damn good.
If you make this recipe verbatim you will love it. But the larger point is to play your own game of refrigerator roulette. Balance flavors: something sweet (caramelized onions), something savory (mushrooms and steak), something salty, bitter or sour, spicy — a good dish keeps all of these balls in the air at the same time.
You can leave out few, as this dish does, or try to get them all in there, which is a little harder but the result can be amazing. Color is important, as is temperature.
Add stuff all you want, but always remember that famous quote from legendary fashionista Coco Chanel: “Before you go out, always take something off.” That applies to food, too. Simple is good. Restraint is power.
Enjoy!
Venison Steaks with Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, divided
- 3 onions, peeled and sliced from root to tip
- Salt
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 2 teaspoons honey (optional)
- 1 pound venison backstrap
- Porcini powder (optional)
- 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, ideally hen of the woods a/k/a maitake, sliced
- 3 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
- Dandelion leaves (optional, for garnish)
Instructions
- Start by caramelizing the onions. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it's hot, add the onions and toss to coat. Cover the onions, turn the heat down and cook slowly, stirring once in a while. You are looking for them to slowly soften and brown, not scorch on the edges. After 10 minutes or so, they'll start to get soft. Sprinkle salt over them and let them cook some more. When they are just starting to brown, add the thyme and honey. Cook until they are a nice brown. Remove and set aside. The onions can be made in advance.
- While the onions are cooking, take the venison out of the fridge and salt it well. Let it come to room temperature the whole time you are cooking the onions; this is especially important if you are using elk or moose backstrap, which is thick.
- When the onions are done, wipe out the pan and add the remaining butter. Pat the venison dry with a paper towel and sear it over medium-high heat, turning it to make sure all sides are well browned. Use the finger test for doneness (See notes, below) to determine when to take it out of the pan. Let the meat rest on a cutting board. If you have some, roll the venison in the porcini powder as it rests.
- While the venison is resting, put the mushrooms in the pan and turn the heat to high. Sear the mushrooms until they release their water; this might not happen with hen of the woods. When the water has almost boiled away or when the mushrooms begin to brown, add some more butter and saute hard until the mushrooms are nicely browned. Salt them as they cook.
- Once the mushrooms are ready, add back the caramelized onions and the parsley and toss to combine. Heat through and put some on everyone's plate. Add the dandelion leaves if you are using them. Slice the venison into medallions and serve.
The thyme really makes it sing.
I made it for dinner and we had with a nice Pinot Noir. I also added a splash into the butter that I used to cook the steaks. We will repeat this recipe with any blackstrap I get. Next time I might try it with a side of egg noodles instead of potatoes.
I used fresh poke weed instead of dandelion, DELISH
Just made this recipes, easy and delicious, only difference i deglazed the mushrooms with Merlot wine,
How long do you think the blackstrap needs to be in the 235 degree oven?
Steve: Are you talking Celsius? If so, maybe 10 minutes?
Hank, what a simple and excellent recipe! I made this tonight with some backstrap medallions from a deer I shot a couple weeks ago, but used shallots instead of onions. My wife was not a red meat person and grew up eating below-average quality cooking so she’s really picky, but dishes like this continue to convert her, she wants more! Thanks for your hard work on this blog, we love it!
Wow what a great recipe although I’ve generally seared with the porcini dust already on the backstrap and finish in oven but I want to try it like Erik suggested..I did a roast beef that way about a month ago and I’m sold on that strategy. It was awesome. I am the camp cook here in upstate NY plus an avid mushroom gatherer. The Grifola is one of the only reasons I don’t live in perpetual jealousy of the folks on the mid to upper left coast. That Instagram shot of that giant porcini was borderline mean! They get so buggy here and I love them . Again, this is just a super recipe – I will lay something like this on the boys next weekend as we have a bunch hanging all week. Thanks Hank – this is my go to website. I may try rolling the backstrap in the porcini after the sear as you have me intrigued.
Hi Hank-
Your website is awesome I love to hunt and cook game here in Minnesota, your old stomping grounds. One question/comment: When cooking venison backstraps (deer or elk), I always sear the exterior as you describe, but once I have a crusty, dark bark on the backstrap I put it in an oven at 235 degrees (with a probe thermometer). The internal temp of the backstrap is usually around 75 degrees initially. After it slowly reaches 129 degrees, I pull it from the oven and let it rest under foil. The meat temp usually peaks at 135 degrees. When sliced, its looks like roast beef, crusty exterior but an even pink/red throughout most of the meat, without much well done gray on the edges. And delicious! Someone once explained to me the low and slow finish in the oven makes for a more even, balanced rare/med rare interior, and gave some scientific reason. I probably lost interest during the dissertation and focused on my beer instead. Wish I hadn’t. Anyway, this method REALLY works for me. I’ve cooked this way in deer camp without the oven or thermometer, and just used the finger test, and its equally great without digital precision.
Your thoughts or comments?
Skol from Minnesota,
Erik
Erik: That method works great. I sometimes do it, but with my method there is no need to turn on the oven. It’s six of one, half-dozen of another IMHO.
This looks fantastic. We have some Elk steaks in our freezer and have been told that it’s a little tough and doesn’t have the best flavor. Any ideas for what to do with it if that’s the case?
Thanks,
Justin
Justin: If you think the meat will be tough, you will need to slice it thin when you serve it. So maybe cook the backstrap and then slice like roast beef and then add to the onions and mushrooms.
Just as I saw this recipe I had something similar planned for my dinner tonight. However I am a sandwich man and it will all be on top of a big roll! This will be the fiance’s first taste of Deer backstrap so hopefully I knock this one out of the park!
That looks delicious — and so beautifully presented, as well!
Thanks for all your posts.
I knew those were dandelions! How great to see someone using them in a “serious” recipe. It’s great reading how you’ve tried to make some of the recipes you’ve posted lately as locally flavored as possible; eating in course with the seasons. I’ve never thought of using dandelions as a garnish, they certainly can add some interest to a meal (especially if they come straight from the front yard), plus they’re extra healthy!
Thanks so much for sharing.