Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Morel mushrooms and venison, or antelope, or bison, or even the common steak, are a marriage far more successful than most pairings between mushrooms and meat — which can often compete with one another. This dish is simple, deep and delicious.

But don’t skimp on the morels, or the quality of any ingredient: You — and your guests — will notice. Can’t find them? You can buy morels online,or you can substitute shiitakes from the supermarket.

My original version was made with venison loin (backstrap) and mostly dried morels. I’ve also done it with venison tenderloin and fresh morels. Both versions are below.

Serves 4

• 4 venison medallions, cut 3/4 to 1 inch thick, or the tenderloins from a large deer
• Salt and fresh ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons grapeseed or another oil with a high smoke point
• 2 fresh morel mushrooms, cut in half lengthwise (optional, and only for dried morel version)

MOREL SAUCE

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 1 minced shallot
• A handful of dried morels, about 1/4 cup, soaked in water for several hours OR about 20 fresh morels, chopped
• 1 cup venison or beef stock OR 1/4 cup venison or veal demi-glace
• 1/2 cup port wine (something you would drink)
• Salt to taste

1. In a small saucepan, reduce the stock and the water you soaked the morels in over high heat until you are left with about 1/2 cup of liquid. Turn off the heat and set aside. Obviously skip this step if using fresh morels, and do not include the demi-glace if using.
2. Take the venison out of the fridge and salt it liberally. Let it rest at room temperature for 20-30 minutes.
3. Heat a pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium-high and place the fresh morels down on the pan to heat. They will release their water quickly. Let this simmer until the water is almost all gone, then add 3 tablespoons of butter and shallot. saute for 3-4 minutes, stirring often. Remove and set aside. If you are using dried morels,you do not need to dry-cook them first.
4. Either wipe the pan down or use another one. Heat it over high heat for a minute or two and add the grapeseed oil. Heat this for 1 minute.
5. Pat the venison dry with a paper towel and place it in the pan. Sear it for 3-4 minutes on one side, then flip. Let it cook through to your taste on the other side without flipping again. Look for about another 1-3 minutes. Remove meat from pan and set aside under foil to rest.
6. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and let it melt over medium heat. Add the flour and stir to combine to make a roux. Cook this for 2 minutes.
7. Add the port wine and stir to combine. It will thicken immediately, and if it turns to a paste add the morel water-stock mix you reduced in step one. If it does not turn into a paste, let the port boil a minute, then add the stock or demi-glace. Add the morels.
8. Once the morels are heated through, lay down a pool of the sauce on the plates, then top with venison. Arrange the rehydrated morels around the meat, and top each steak with a half of a fresh morel.
9. Grind black pepper over all and serve at once.

More Venison Recipes

Buy Fresh or Dried Morels Online: