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18 responses to “Wild Duck Consomme”

  1. Daniel Klein

    It is a very satisfying process, and very frustrating when you burn it (or don’t salt it). Looks gorgeous with those raviolis.

  2. Andrew

    Have you ever clarified your stock using gelatin? I find it’s much easier. When I make chicken or beef stock, I usually have enough gelatin in it naturally to work, but you can always add a bit extra if your stock doesn’t set up. Once you have a gelled stock, just freeze it and then thaw it in the fridge in a cheese cloth lined strainer over a bowl. Depending on how much you are doing, it could take a day or two to thaw, but it works well and is dead simple.

  3. Kim Graves

    Hi Hank,

    “Spider.” I have one and use it. I just never knew what it was called. Thanks.

    What a great post. Do you know Richard Olney? He has three stages of skimming the stock/souse that I’ve found really useful. First you take off the scum; then you take off the fat; lastly you take of that thin membrane of protein that floats to the surface – and the stock must never more than shimmer for hours. It is this last instruction that I find so hard. Making stock isn’t hard technically. But, for me, it’s hard emotionally. I’m in too much of a hurry and so fail 9 times out of 10 (well, maybe not quite that often). If you have advice on *that* I’d be really interested.

    That consommé looks great.

    Best, Kim

  4. Sarah Galvin (All Our Fingers in the Pie)

    Looks stunning. I love consomme. My raft is much simpler but I really must try your suggestions. I also found it much easier to make a clear consomme if I defatted the broth first. I, too, often forget to salt food before I serve it and then kick myself.

  5. Florian

    I love the pictures, I’m having a serious ravioli craving now! Have you ever tried to serve the consomme with tiny agnolotti?

  6. Sean

    This is the first time that the egg white clarification process has been described in a manner that not only is undertandable, seems do-able. Thanks for that.

  7. Paul C

    Beautiful Hank! It’s rare to see stock so well clarified!

    It kind of looks like a cup of tea, which reminds me of reading somewhere that in Victorian England they used to make teas with seafoods and other meats. I’d guess they dried the protein and ground it down it first and then used it just like tea leaves.

  8. J.R. Young

    Nice to see some respect given to consommes. Sadly, they are far too often overlooked by diners (maybe eater is a more accurate term). One of my favorite local chefs makes a wonderful consomme, but he can’t sell it. As the eaters say they don’t want “soup”. I think there is a lack of understanding from most of the craft that goes into a great consomme (hell even a good one at that). Eaters today eat up the kitchen chemistry of foams and pearls, I do too if done with restraint. However, a consomme is old school kitchen chemistry that has so much going on behind the scenes the finished product never gets it full appreciation.

    Enough with the rant, the duck consomme looks amazing. My only dissapointment is I can’t taste it through the interwebs.

  9. Nate Grace

    Wow, this sounds and looks great. I may have to give this a whirl next year.

    Nate

  10. MNAngler

    I was shocked to see that the beef broth that rivaled a French restaurant’s was one by a restaurant in St. Paul, MN. I’ve never even heard of Tanpopo, but now I’ll have to check them out.

    My wife makes some great homemade broth. Perhaps I can persuade her to take the next step and make them into consumme. If not, you’ve made it look so simple, I might be naive enough to try.

  11. Nick (Macheesmo)

    Beautiful dish and great tips. I’ve never tried this, but it doesn’t look so difficult. Thanks for the tips!

  12. kate@livingthefrugallife

    I’m one who cut my cooking teeth on consomme, and I haven’t made any in at least a decade. Truth be told, I doubt chefs really regard consomme as passe. I suspect they regard it as a pain in the ass to prepare and a hard sell on the menu for exactly the reasons you cite. (Also, by the way, sole meunier is anything but passe to someone who has tried it done right. Then it’s incomparable.)

    But you’ve inspired me, Hank. I’m taking this in a different direction though. Pork consomme. Yes, my indoctrination said that pork is not a candidate for stock, let alone consomme. I’ve already bucked the conventional wisdom. The stock is in the fridge, intended as a gelatinous sheath for the inside of a classic British raised pork pie. It has good flavor, but is rather dark, even though I was pretty good about skimming while it cooked. It could use a little reduction anyway, since it sets only when completely cool. Might as well clear it up while reducing it, just for yucks. After all, I have incomparably fresh eggs from the back yard.

  13. Rocky Mountain Woman

    I’ve made my own stock for years and I use game for some of it, but I’ve never tried consomme’ This weekend I’m going to try it..can’t wait!

  14. Andrew

    Hank,

    If you need a more powerful consume, I just make a double stock. I make my stock in pressure cooker, so it’s pretty easy.

  15. Ashley

    I heard about this consume. In fact I’m hearing a lot about all these fabulous meals my brother is having and I’m growing quite jealous.
    Wonderful post. Worth all the work I’m sure.

  16. Joshua

    That’s funny… you reading the Bible.
    : )

  17. Xesla Research Organisation » Blog Archive » Duck Breast with Pomegranate Molasses Glaze

    […] Hank’s post on Wild Duck Consomme I decided to make some of my own ( post coming soon ) and as a result of butchering a whole duck I […]

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