Photo by Holly A. Heyser
This is something of a grab bag category, where you will find various sausage-like or cured things that are not really dry aged, nor fermented like salami.
Confit is essentially slow poaching in oil or fat, rillettes are a rough pate — when I make pates they will be in this category, too. I also included coppa di testa, or head cheese, because it is considered part of the overall charcuterie craft. Unlike confit or rillettes, however, coppa di testa does not keep for a long time. Eat it within a week or so.
Duck or Goose Confit
Start here. Duck confit is a basic skill anyone even remotely interested in cooking ducks or geese should know. It will make even the oldest, gnarliest Canada goose leg tender and wonderful — and just think what it can do for a domestic duck or goose.
Pheasant Confit
A slightly different cure for making confit of pheasant or other upland game birds. Same basic process as with duck, only a different cure.
Corned Gizzards and Cabbage
My take on the St. Patrick’s Day classic. While the duck or goose gizzards are cured, this is more of a confit than a traditional “corn.” If you think you don’t like gizzards, try this recipe. I guarantee you will change your mind.
Gizzard Confit with Wild Mushrooms
Duck, goose, turkey or chicken gizzards slowly cooked in duck fat, then seared with wild mushrooms.
Wild Duck or Goose Rilletes
Slow-cooked duck or goose legs and wings, pulled from the bone and pounded with more duck fat, brandy and herbs. An especially awesome used for skinned goose legs from birds like Canadas or snow geese.
Salmon Rillettes
The key here is the combination of both smoked and freshly poached salmon or trout. A great, easy canape for a party… or for watching the game.
Smoked Shad Rillettes
I call these shad rillettes, but they are just as good with any oily fish. Use this recipe with mackerel or bluefish, too.
English Duck Pie
Not exactly a confit or a rillette, but this sturdy meat pie will last 10 days in the fridge. It’s so solid you can bring it to the duck blind.
Coppa di Testa
Yep. Head cheese. I make this with wild boar, but you could also make it with any animal; a young deer is a good alternative.
