Goat Ham, Anyone?
Jul 21st, 2009 | By Hank Shaw | Category: Charcuterie, Italian, Recipe | Comments | 33 Comments |
Photo by Holly A. Heyser
I present to you: mocetta. It is my first-ever dry-cured ham, and because I am generally abnormal, it does not come from a pig. Mocetta (MOE-chet-uh) is a Northern Italian air-dried goat ham.
I wish I could tell you I have an old recipe handed down by the nonnas from Alto Adige, but that’s be a lie. A good lie, yes, but a lie nonetheless. No mocetta recipe exists on the Internet, as best I can tell. I have looked through my charcuterie library and found nothing. I’ve even asked experts I know, such as Chris Cosentino of Incanto, and while they all said they’d heard of this odd ham, none said they’d made it.
Hmmm… With this sort of barrier, why bother to make it at all? Because I had two (yes, two) whole goats in my possession back in the spring and I wanted to cure or sausage-ify as much of one as I could. Hams just seemed appropriate.
Why mocetta? For starters, because it would be something most of my friends and guests would have never seen before; this is always a big attraction for me. Also because the pictures of mocetta that I’d seen were all skinless, as was my goat. Skinless hams cure easily but are tougher to age well because they can dry out fast. As you can see at the bottom of this picture, mine got a little too dry in places.
Back to the recipe, or lack thereof. Actually making mocetta became something of a detective job. I can read Italian well enough to read recipes, so I turned Google onto it and read scores of accounts about mocetta, product descriptions in Italian online catalogs, references to it in books, etc.
What I found is that mocetta always has “Alpine herbs and spices.” Um, what the hell does that mean? I decided to go with a piney, aromatic mix of juniper berries, rosemary, bay leaves, black pepper and garlic. Most of these ingredients are mentioned in someone’s mocetta description, so I figured I was close enough.
Photo by Holly A. Heyser
I then read up on an almost equally obscure product: lamb ham. Mario Batali’s dad Armandino makes lamb ham in Seattle, which, sadly, I have never tried, and I did know of a few recipes for it. Lambs and goats (and maresy dotes… Sorry. If you are old enough to get that one, welcome to your dotage.) are pretty similar, so I reckoned that a similar cure would work, adjusted for the goat leg’s smaller size.
So I did the standard two-step cure many of us use with big hunks o’meat: Rub half the cure mixture on the meat, put in the fridge for several weeks, then rinse and repeat. Yes, you will need to have a goat leg or two lurking in your refrigerator for the better part of a month. Get a big Tupperware or just deal with it…
Once it’s time to hang the mocetta, you will need a curing space with high humidity and pretty low temperatures. I started mine at 80 percent humidity and about 45 degrees. As the meat ages, the humidity needs to go down and the temperature needs to go up. At the end, my goat hams were at 60 percent humidity and 65 degrees.
Photo by Holly A. Heyser
Mocetta is not cured for very long, relatively speaking, because it is always skinless. Why? Because originally the Italo-Swiss who made it used wild ibex that lived in the Alps — not easy to haul a wild goat out of the mountains with skin on, only to scrape the fur off to preserve skin like you would a real prosciutto. I was very glad to hear that even in Italy, where some of their best products are massive pains in the asses (12 YEARS to make good balsamic? Mio dio!) they took the “easy” way out on this one.
Still, mocetta needs 2-5 months hanging. Better than the 12-18 months for a real prosciutto, but long enough to begin to develop those mysterious esthers and flavors that a truly old ham gets. Funky yet aromatic.
I decided to cut down my first-ever cured ham for my first-ever catering gig: A luncheon for the Krupp Bros. winery in Napa. This was the first time I’d ever cooked for people I did not know, and the event turned out to be a little like that TV show “Dinner: Impossible,” as there was no running water, it was hotter than Georgia asphalt in August, and six more people showed up than I had been told about. Oh, and did I mention the lunch was held on the top of a hill? Pretty, but a daunting challenge.
I did manage to pull it off, thank heaven! I got the impression everyone was happy, and had enough to eat. I heard lots of good things about my charcuterie platter, which had two kinds of salami, lonzino, sweet coppa and of course the mocetta. One guest even asked me if the ham was jamon iberico, which is the world’s greatest ham. I think I actually blushed. Nope, I said, it’s goat. From Sacramento.
Now don’t get me wrong: I do not think my goat ham tastes anywhere near as good as real jamon iberico. But when I can manage to slice it thin (I TOTALLY need a slicer!) it is pretty excellent: Good color, firm but still supple, meaty, fatty and with an aroma that is just this side of goaty. I like it a lot with a husky red wine. And if you come over my house anytime soon, I will definitely cut you a slice…
Photo by Holly A. Heyser
MOCETTA, an ITALIAN GOAT HAM
This is essentially a little prosciutto, without the skin. As such it will dry out faster and will be ready in far less time, even as little as three months. The longer you let it hang, the more humidity you will need to prevent the leg from becoming goat jerky. I aged mine four months and got a good balance of firmness, funkiness, color and flavor.
Keep in mind I have never found an authentic recipe for mocetta, but I have read scores of accounts of this meat and have come up with this approximation; if any of you have real recipes from Alto Adige or thereabouts, let me know so I can try them.
As with any cured meat product, the meat matters: Use only meat from small farmers who care about their product, or hunt it yourself. Hunters, use antelope legs or those of small deer — or a wild sheep or goat, if you can find one.
Makes 2 goat hams.
Prep Time: About 120 days
- 2 young goat legs
- 8 grams Instacure No. 2
- 1 cup Kosher salt
- 1/2 cup white sugar
- 25 grams garlic powder
- 10 grams juniper berries
- 12 grams black pepper
- 5 grams dried thyme
- 12 grams fresh rosemary
- 15 bay leaves
- Grind the juniper berries, black pepper, thyme and bay leaves together until fine. Mince the rosemary. Combine all the spices with the salts and mix well. Divide this mixture in half. Put one part of the cure away in a sealed container.
- Carefully rub half the mixture into the goat legs, making sure to get lots into the ball joint that had connected the leg to the pelvis; this is where leg cuts often spoil. Massage the spices and salts into the meat.
- Put the legs into a large container and refrigerate for 2-3 weeks. Drain off any liquid that seeps out of the meat. You will know it’s about done when the meat has firmed up quite a bit.
- Rinse off the cure and pat the legs dry. Repeat Step 3 with the second half of the cure.
- Let the legs cure in the fridge for another 7-10 days. The longer you go, the saltier the meat will be — and the longer it will last without spoiling.
- When you are ready, rinse off the cure again and soak the legs in fresh water for an hour. This relieves a little of the saltiness and results in a moister cure — you needed to cure with so much salt for so long to make sure it penetrated all the way through to the bone. The water soak removes some of that salt so it won’t be overpowering when you ultimately serve the mocetta.
- Hang for 2-5 months. You want a temperature between 40 and 65 degrees (colder at the beginning, and warmer near the end), and a humidity starting at about 80 percent and slowly decreasing — say, 5 percent a week) until you are at about 60 percent humidity.
- Once it’s ready, you can cut the meat from the bone and slice thin, or slice bone-in. Serve at room temperature with cheese and a husky red wine. Wrap closely and store in the fridge, or seal it and freeze it.
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Hank, you are my fucking hero. This is awesome. Congrats on the catering event going so well!
Damn, that might be the first f-bomb I’ve ever seen here at HAGC – and I like it.
It seems like one might be able to get away with a small venison ham with this. Yes?
I’m at your door right now.
Kidding. But, yeah, that looks really, really good.
As for the humidifying, was that in a fancy meat box?
And as for the jingle, all I have to say is: little amzee dizeys. A skiddle-ee-dizey doo!
Hank,
You need to get access to a cave somewhere that meets your curing criteria! That ham looks delicious! Which reminds me… my dad mentioned that in the years when the oak mast crop was greatest, the Jamon Iberico was also best. Might work here too.
Best regards,
Albert
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I am getting in my car, and driving over right this second. This looks fantastic mate, love the color.
What a great story about the catering job too. I cannot believe you did anything but completely rocked it.
The lamb ham from Salumi is amazing. I just love the stuff. I haven’t had it in a while, which is a shame though.
Hank that is SOO cool. I would love to try some. Too bad I have NO clue where to buy goat in my area….
Hank, be careful about inviting people over to your house. You might have some unexpected visitors soon! Sacramento is not that far from San Francisco, and I would easily make that drive for charcuterie. Now, how to figure out where you live…
Great post, and a fantastic ham! Looks really, really good. Bravo, Hank! I liked it and I didn’t even get a chance to taste it. Thanks.
Hank, I know it’s probably considered cheating, but I have great luck with using an electric handheld knife for slicing thin stuff (bacon, ham, jerky, etc). If needed, I firm the meat up in the freezer and go to town. I covet a slicer as well, but budgetary and space concerns keep me from making the plunge… this works well.
Plus, you can fillet a POTLOAD of fish with it!
Keep up the good work.
Garret I second that, I dream of doing things so awesome, but then come back to reality and realize one: who would really appreciate the time and effort that goes into something so fabulous, and two: where in the hell does one find the time to create so many mouthwatering culinary delights.
Hank, I hope your friends realize how lucky they really are to be able enjoy your beautiful work.
Okay Hank, I’ve been lurking for sometime, but this post made me come out and comment! I don’t even eat goat and I am ready to make the 8ish hour drive from the Desert of So Cal. Just for a slice and perhaps to forage with you and Holly.
I have been wanting to get into charcuterie and I am curious where you cured your ham? (what “cave”) as this has been my biggest obstacle with attempting aged cheeses and cured meat.
Would have loved, loved to be a guest at that event – and can not wait to try… Salmon Cheeks! Who knew?
Gotta go, my mouth is watering so much I am choking a little.
~Blondie
Kindred Spirit: You bet it’d work with a small venison ham. I’d recommend using a doe.
Josh: You’re too young to be able to know that jingle. And I use an old fridge with a temp. regulator and a small humidifier.
Albert: I need to start digging a cave…
Matt: When you come over, bring some of Armandino’s lamb ham.
Scampwalker: I can cut thinner slices by hand than any electric knife I have yet seen or used. God bless Japanese knives!
I am very jealous. One thing which we regularly have sent over from India, and which Blondie might try in “the Desert of So Cal” is known simply as kabab: You take 6-8 in. long by 1 in. wide and 1 in. thick “ropes” of goat meat, treat extremely liberally with salt, red chili powder, turmeric, and garlic-ginger paste. Hang it in very bright sun for about a week. Fry and eat alone or with rice and whatever as needed.
Hank,
When did you get into the catering biz? Is this going to become a more common occurence?
DO YOU NEED ASSISTANCE? I’ve got a large capacity vehicle and a love for meat.
Matt
Super impressive, Hank. I’ve recently become obsessed with this region and it’s salumi recently. I’m trying to track down authentic Kamminwurz and speck recipes as we speak. Looks great, BTW.
Hank, you don’t know how old I am… I’ve got a portrait in my attic that is all wrinkly…
The old fridge sounds like a neat set-up, something I don’t have the ability to do right now (unless, God willing, I actually shoot something one of these days).
My wife’s grandma is from Bedonia in Northern Italy. I will have to ask her when I see her next weekend if she knows of this ham.
Sounds really awesome. Do want.
Hank,
I am just thinking about the just barley “sans spots” whitetail I plan on taking this fall to use for this but have one question. What about the fat? I notice that your goat has some nice marbleing, I won’t have that on my venison, any problems?
Brady
Matt: I am not really in the catering biz — I did this gig as a favor for a friend.
Scott: Pass on those speck recipes! I want to make some when the weather cools.
Josh: Nice Dorian Grey reference…
Rob: Definitely let me know — and wasn’t there a zucchini recipe you were going to get me?
Brady: Leave the fat on the alfalfa doe. No interior marbling on a deer, but that sweet alfalfa fat will carry things a long way.
This sounds delicious. You’re lucky I’m on the East Coast (or on a different continent, for the time being), because I would turn up on your doorstep to find out what goat ham tastes like.
yeah, hank, i think you’re my my hero too. your blog really teaches me new things. not many out there that do that. i would absolutely love to taste this. thank you for a wonderful post! and it sounds like you did a great job w/ the catering gig.
Could the goat ham leg not be “cased” in a mixture of flour, salt, spices, to prevent too much drying? I’m under the impression that prosciutto is cased this way, farmstead style.
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Mark: If you wanted to, you could case the leg with warmish lamb or pork fat — spreadable, like butter — and then coat the fat layer with cracked peppercorns and coriander seeds. No flour. I just never got around to doing this, and the mocetta came out fine.
I would totally go halfsies on the slicer with you, but the whole mailing it back and forth thing might get cumbersome. My latest batch of duck prosciutto was so good that a guest also thought it was jamón. If only I had a basement I would be doing this right away. How exacting do you think one needs to be with temp and humidity?
Peter: Temp and humidity are pretty important here, and of the two humidity is the most important. You REALLY need to watch or the ham will dry out fast.
Hank: Yeah, repeat what everyone else said about “hero”. The comments about higher humidity being *good* for the cure is making me reconsider whether I couldn’t do this in my apartment in San Francisco….assuming I can keep the temperature low enough.
The nitrate is critical to prevent botulism (IIRC) takeover, I assume?
Oh my God,
just discovered your site. I live in New Zealand and it is winter over here. Ideal circumstances for me to make ham and air dried sausages. The right temperature and humidity for at least three-four months of the year. I have just started this drying melarky and I am waiting eagerly for my first batch of Chorizo to loose their last excess liquid (200 ml to go) and they smell divine and my first batch of Prosciutto is just about ready to be air cured. I just found a great source for goat and just googled goat ham and you turned up. Also I googled Alpine herbs and spices and found this link. http://www.swissalpineherbs.ch/en/produkte/bio_kraeutermischungen.php. Hope it helps.
I’m sure am going to try your ham.
Cheers
for a taste of your Mocetta, i will gladly share my deli-size meat slicer with you!
we’re just down the road a bit in the “nut tree” valley
looking forward to giving this a try…i have a goat who keeps escaping….
btw~
what kind of setup do you have for hanging your hams? we have always had the problem of getting the proper humidity. a friend makes us a basque ham every year but it stays in the susanville area until around december so it gets proper humidity.
Tina: I have a humidifier set up in an old fridge that has a temperature regular on it. Keeps the humidity to about 70 percent. Works like a charm!
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Is it supposed to get fuzzy during the curing phase with the salt rub?