Tinkering with Sausages
Apr 30th, 2009 | By | Category: Charcuterie, Cooking Basics, Greek, Wild Game | Comments | 30 Comments |
I have been making a lot of sausages lately, and as each batch will typically give me some new insight into this craft, I have much to tell from my recent adventures.
You can learn all kinds of things from books on the subject; I recently went through a quick review of my sausage-making library. But as we all know, there is an enormous amount to learn about any subject we want to become expert at that, for whatever reason, never shows up in print. Maybe it becomes second nature to the experts, who then forget to write it down. Maybe it’s how they maintain their advantage — if you don’t tell ‘em everything you know, there will always be a reason to buy from a pro, right?
Before I get into the Secrets of the Sausage (which sounds like a title for a bad porno flick), let me stop and say that these are tips best appreciated by those who have made sausage before, or who really, really care about making top-quality links.
If you’re looking for a simple primer on sausage-making, I wrote one on Elise’s site she has posted here.
My recent sausage binge started with some extra pork shoulder I had left over after making Portuguese blood sausage. I needed to use the meat before it went into the freezer, and our annual Big Fat Greek Party was coming up, so I decided to make a Greek sausage.
Whenever I am brainstorming All Things Greek , I start with Diane Kochilas’s The Glorious Foods of Greece
So I then consulted Rytek Kutas’ Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing
These links, as it happened, were the best of a bunch of different sausages I made for the Greek party — although I forgot to serve them at the soiree, so Holly and I have been gorging ourselves on them this week.
In addition to the pork shoulder, I also made two types of Greek lamb sausages, which I did serve, and my Thessaly-style lamb sausages turned out to be a favorite among many who ate them at the party. Another hit were the Spanish-style longaniza sausages I made from the trim of the whole goat I broke down. These were my favorite of the party links, but the guests were evenly split.
What did I learn making all these links? First and foremost is what I call Hank’s Law of Sausage Cooking: It is impossible to cook a sausage too slowly. Good sausages hate high heat. Indirect heat on a wood-fire grill is perfect, but my indoor alternative is to put a spot of oil in an oven-proof pan, brown one side over medium-low heat, flip the links, then put them in a 300-degree oven for 20-30 minutes. They come out perfect.
Some other tips:
- When making fresh sausages, use fresh ingredients. This should be a “duh!” thing to say, but it bears repeating: I used fresh green garlic in many of my sausages, freshly grated lemon zest and fresh herbs and I noticed the difference.
- When you do use dry spices, toast them in a dry pan first. For whatever reason it makes them taste stronger, even weeks later.
- Buy the best casings you can afford. I had a near-murderous moment when the “premium” casings I had bought broke again and again. I’m glad no one was around when that happened; I had sharp knives handy.
- Leave some spices out for the final mix. When you do this, you get some whole things, such as caraway or fennel seed, or larger chunks like cracked black pepper or crushed juniper berry. This makes the texture of the link a lot more interesting.
- Vary the length of your sausage links depending on how rich they are. This is of course a matter of opinion, but I think leaner links ought to be long and skinny, and fatty ones shorter and plumper. I made a batch of classic white bratwurst last year that were so rich few could eat more than one — and those were only 5-inch links. Imagine if they were eight or nine inches.
- Spend the time to trim silverskin. It is a huge pain in the ass, but you so need to get your knife sharp and trim away gristle and the silverskin membranes on the meat, especially if you are making sausage from the trim of a whole animal. I’m talking to you, deer and pig hunters! I’ve had a great many homemade wild game links that were fine-tasting but really gnyah-gnyah…
- The poorer the meat quality, the finer the grind. If I am dealing with hopelessly gristly or chewy meat, or meat from an old animal, I will grind it a second time through a fine die (like the sausages I made from that old rooster). It will greatly improve your sausage.
- Choose your fat wisely. There is fat and there is fat. Choose the hardest fat you can find on the animal (not a problem on a deer or with beef fat) as it will freeze better and resist smearing better than soft fat. Use back fat on a hog if possible, although there is plenty of suitable fat in the shoulder. Just avoid using fatty bits that are stringy; they usually live between muscles.
- If you’re going real slow, add a bit of nitrite. This last tip is a bit controversial, as many people want to limit their nitrite consumption and fresh sausages typically don’t need any added nitrites. But if you plan on slow-smoking your links below 200 degrees, I’d advise a few grams of sodium nitrite (Instacure No. 1) for protection against food poisoning — it will also give you a beautiful rosy color within the meat.
- The liquid matters. The exact same sausage recipe with red wine instead of white wine will taste different. Vinegar will change it again, as will water or fruit juice or liquor; I’ve added ouzo in a few of my recipes. Put some thought into not only what kind of liquid you want to use, but also the quality of it — if you won’t drink it, don’t use it.
Finally, after several years of doing this, I feel like I am becoming an intuitive sausage-maker. I’m getting an eye for how much spices or herbs would overpower the meat, how long to make links, etc. All of this is pretty cool. But what I am really enjoying is learning balance.
I know, I know, it sounds all Karate Kid. “Balance, Daniel-san!” But think about it: A good sausage has all flavor elements in harmony. Savory is easy, so is salty. Sour can come from vinegar or a slow-fermented salami, sweet from any number of sources. Herbs need to play well with one another, as do spices. To garlic up a link or not? Will there be a star player, other than the meat?
Not every batch I do meets these goals; A sausage can still be good without doing so. My Cyclades sausages, however, met my expectations and then some — and it’s not just because I am eating one right now.
Hi Hank,
thanks for the sausage tips! Also, nice article in yeserday’s Record.
Any recipe for the Cyclades sausages, other than leeks and garlic?
I love the flavors of Greece and have made a number of traditional Greek sausages (Loukanika is big favorite), but when I traveled to Greece last year, I could not find good sausages anywhere. Every breakfast seemed to include slices of bologna and little snack links that were a notch or two below Oscar Meyer. I kept trying it, only to wonder “Who eats this stuff?”
You’re making me seriously miss Greece. I’m not usually a big fan of sausage, but we had a few kinds of lamb sausage when we were in Crete that were mouth-wateringly delicious.
Yeah, Larbo — click the hotlink on the Cyclades sausages in the text. All my sausage recipes are accessible via hotlinks, and they all live in the Wild Game Recipes section of the site.
I’ve also heard that about Greece. Weird, huh? Maybe they hide the good food from the tourists?
Great incite Hank! Of all culinary endeavors, the art of salumi/sausage making is the one that takes the most practice to perfect. It is truly an art, balancing flavors to please the palate and most importantly conquering the mighty task of texture. You are a man after my own passion! Keep up the great work and i am not sure if the Beard results are out yet but good luck. Either way it is a great honor to be nominated by such a prestigious body.
What kind of grinder do have/prefer?
Do you use an actual sausage mixer or kitchen aid or like my archaic self by hand?
Hey Nick: I find out about the Beard awards on Sunday; I am headed to NYC tonight, actually.
I use my Kitchenaid grinder, and then use the paddle attachment on the Kitchenaid to mix. NTSC over at “The Art of the Pig” is slowly convincing me I need a stand-alone grinder, though…
You need a stand alone grinder, you will wonder why it took you so long.
Break a leg on the Beard award.
Yeah I use a hand powered grinder that I found through Cabela’s, but thinking about moving to an automatic.
@Nick.
There are three tools involved, a meat grinder, a big mixer and a stuffer. I use a grinder and a stuffer both from Northern Industrial, the cheapest powered grinder and the 5 lb stuffer. The mixer is a 5 quart KA.
Up until recently the grinder was the KA attachment, but I got the powered one from the nice guy in the red suit.
Great info and insights. Just starting to get serious about sausages myself. Just got a new stuffer this weekend after the first disaster with the KA stuffer attachment. Needless to say, I have about 10 lbs of bulk sausage in the freezer after that debacle. I look forward to more info and recipes!
I’ve used an electric Cabela’s baseline grinder for years. Works great and was a cheap purchase. It also came with a stuffing attachment…which I don’t like. It’s way too slow for stuffing, which stinks b/c time and heat are your enemies when making sausage. I’d advise buying a separate stuffer like NTSC has recommended. It’s on my wish list.
secrets of the sausage – LOL. LOL.LOL. if that movie comes out hank, i’m gonna know you’re behind it.
i really love that you have a passion for sausage making. i think that if i had alot more time to devote to sausage making (and space – living in nyc is not a good space to make sausages), i think i would do it often. maybe i was a sausage maker in a former life? there is something so zen about it. i admire your passion!
Hi Hank and thanks for another wonderful post. love your sense of humor
Timely. I just posted advocating the trimming of pork sinew prior to grinding. I REALLY buggered up a batch or two of sausage because of failing to do this. Glad to see your list, as it confirms some things I’ve learned, and offers other tidbits that will hopefully take my sausage making up a notch.
My sweet man from Maine sent me a newspaper clipping about this crazy guy named Hank who hunted, gathered, cooked it, grew it and wrote about it. Wow! You’re amazing and I thought I was the only…uh…uncivilized gal left in the world! I am immensely enjoying the read, will be back for more of what I don’t know, every post a lesson. And to think my man sees so much of what I do in your wonderful affirming writing, and shared it with me. You’re a keeper- Take care-
Good action on the sausage report, but where’s the NYC report? You mean you can’t post at 30,000 feet with an iPhone? Actually, I hope you’re not on your way home yet but enjoying another bite or two out of the Big Apple. Way to represent, Hank!
great, great post on sausages. I always learn something new whenever I come here, and this will be indispensable when I start making sausages
Great post, Hank.
I enjoy reading your comments about sausage making. We made some for the first time with friends in January. So far, we’ve tried cooking them twice and have overcooked them each time. About how long would you leave them on a gas grill and at what temp? Thanks, Cynthia
Cynthia: I would cook the sausages next to — not directly over — a gas burner set on medium-low. Turn them from time to time and cook until you get a nice brown color. Maybe 10-15 minutes? Remember that slower is better. Sausages hate high heat…
Ooops, I forgot to ask, lid open or closed? No rush on reply, Cynthia
Cynthia: Lid closed.
Hank,
Great article! I was wondering if you could help me. I am new to the whole sausage making game. My stuffed sausages crumble apart after they have been cooked and cut. They still have that ground meat texture. Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening?
Frank: It means you did not get a proper bind in your meat-fat mixture. This could be one of three things: Most likely is that your mixture was too warm; you want the mixture to be close to freezing (34-36 degrees).
The other likely culprits could be either not enough mixing before stuffing — or too much. I generally have good results with 90-120 seconds of mixing in a Kitchenaid set on its lowest level.
Hank,
When you say the meat to fat mixture. Does that mean that I don’t have enough fat or that I have too much? Thanks for the help
Frank: I made no mention of the percentage of meat to fat, although it needs to be at least 20 percent fat. What I mean is they did not bind well when you mixed them after grinding — you did mix after grinding, right? If not, then that’s your problem right there…
What is usually the inside temp when you hang your fresh sausages? My house this time of year is usually mid 70″s when I would be hanging the links prior to putting in fridge. Can I do this for an hour (two?) without worrying about food borne illness if they are subsequently cooked thoroughly? Suggestions
Richard: You bet. Salt is a wonderful thing. I have the same issue now, and I let my links hang about an hour before putting them in the fridge. In winter, I put them in a cool garage (50s or so) for 4-5 hours.
Hank, a couple of fantastic articles on sausage making. Loved the step by step guide with pictures and tips. Great work!
I am a British Expat who now lives in Canton, China, where savory sausages are impossible to find – along with many other foods that are either non-existent or ridiculously expensive.
My website offers advice and support for Expat’s, and I am about to add a new section concerning how to make Western food you simply cannot buy here. Obviously, we cannot go to the store and buy the equipment like grinders, or materials like casings either – although intestines are easy to get anywhere.
I’ll obviously link to your excellent webpages, but wondered if we can take this a little further so other Expat’s can make their own sausages with what is readily to hand over here? I was thinking about how to choose intestines and prepare them to make casings, and that sort of thing. Cheers!
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