- Wild Game
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I write. I fish. I dig earth, raise plants, live politics and kill wild animals. I drink bourbon, wear seersucker or Wranglers with equal aplomb and wish I owned a farm. But most of all I think daily about new ways to eat anything that walks, flies, swims, crawls, skitters, jumps - or grows. I am the omnivore who has solved his dilemma.
Fish meatballs! What’s not to love? This is a German version, doable with pretty much any fish that swims, and it’s served with a bright, herby green sauce that is traditional in Hesse. Remember the Hessians from the War of Independence? That’s them.
A Chinese style plum sauce made with wild plums. This stuff kicks the crap out of store-bought, and is even better on Peking Duck than the more common hoisin sauce. But hell, this stuff is so good it’d be awesome on an old tire.
Quail barbecued slow and low with Arizona sauce. What is Arizona sauce, you say? All that is good about the wild foods of the Southwest: mesquite honey, tequila, and wild chiltepin chiles.
Few dishes speak to the heart of Hunan province in China as does red-cooked pork. It is a masterfully slow-cooked stew of pork belly, and in this case either wild boar or black bear belly, gently transformed into melting magic. It’s one of the best Chinese dishes on this site. I guarantee it.
My first trip to France was a mixed bag, culinarily speaking. In nine days of binge eating and drinking, nothing I ate could best the best I’ve eaten in America. But make no mistake: The French know how to eat, and eat well. They can teach us a few things even yet.
I had Chef April Bloomfield’s ricotta gnudi in New York at the James Beard Awards, and I had to recreate them, only with my own twist: A sauce of ramps and fresh porcini I found in the High Sierra.
Every spring I create a dish that celebrates spring’s colors, which for me are green and gold. Here is this year’s edition, a trout dish that is as simple as it is pretty.
This might be the prettiest – and best-tasting – dish I’ve made this spring. You can really taste the ramps in the pasta, and the morels, cooked simply with ramps, butter and a little stock, compliment the pasta like sunshine on a pretty girl’s eyes.
Ever since I began studying Chinese food a few years ago, I noticed how much fermented and pickled foods factor into their cooking. Most of us know about Korean kimchi and many have had Japanese pickles before, but Chinese pickles are still relatively rare here in America. One of my favorites — and one that [...]
Trout with morels, ramps and fiddleheads is a classic combination – all are in season at the same time, and in the same place. Even in the High Sierra, we have our own rendition, with bracken fiddleheads and Sierra wild onions. I call this dish Sierra Spring.