A simple roast grouse is no simple thing. No cook ever has an abundance of ruffed grouse — and it is the forest-dwelling ruffed grouse I am talking about here, not the sharptail of the Great Plains (if you have them,instructions on how to roast a sharpie are here) Even if you do have a bunch of ruffies, it would be a sin against God and Nature to waste them. Grouse are not to be trifled with. The cardinal rule with grouse is don’t mess with it. Roast it simply, add a sauce that compliments it, and enjoy.
Preheat oven to 450°F. Remove grouse from the fridge and pat dry. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes while the oven is heating. Halve the lemon and stick each half into the grouse. Smear butter all over the grouse, including a small knob in the cavity and under the neck where the crop once was. Use more than you think you need, at least a tablespoon per grouse, preferably two.
Place the birds in a roasting pan or cast-iron frying pan and roast for 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to 350°F and turn the grouse on one side. Baste it thoroughly with the melted butter in the pan. Roast for another 10 minutes. Repeat by turning the grouse on the other side. Be sure to baste again. Roast for 10 more minutes.
Remove the birds from the oven and let rest on a cutting board, covered in foil, for 10 minutes.
Notes
I like to brine my birds for up to 8 hours before roasting them. Make a brine of 1/4 cup kosher or pickling salt and 1 quart of water. Submerge the grouse in this for at least 2 hours. Four hours is good, and 8 hours is on the edge. If you leave them too long they get very salty. For the pilaf recipe, use either the pilaf I make with Roast Duck or the pilaf I make with venison. Both are excellent.