Spinach is the default green for this recipe, but really any tender leafy green will work, from chard to all the wild greens, from dandelions to lamb's quarters to amaranth to New Zealand spinach. Arugula, turnip or mustard greens, beet greens are all other good choices. Serve these simply, either as a side dish to something meaty or some seafood, or by themselves as a vegetarian main course. I like a big white white here, like a Friuli from northern Italy, or a Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, or Pinot Grigio.
1/4cupgrated parmigiano or pecorino cheese,heaping
Salt to taste,about 2 or 3 teaspoons
1/4teaspoonground nutmeg
1/2teaspoonground black pepper
1/2cupflour
TO SERVE
1/4cupbutter,duck fat or chicken fat
4or 5 large cloves garlic,sliced thin
A squeeze of lemon juice
Instructions
Boil the greens in salty water until they're tender. This will range from a minute for delicate things like spinach or parsley, to maybe 4 minutes for New Zealand spinach or chard. Don't boil anything for more than about 7 minutes, or the greens will lose their pretty green color. Plunge the greens into a large bowl of ice water to shock them. Remove and squeeze the greens until they're just damp. Chop very fine and set into a bowl.
Meanwhile, soak the bread cubes in the milk until they soften. When the bread is soft, mash it into a paste with your (very clean) hands so no large bits remain. Add this to the bowl with the greens.
Add all the remaining dumpling ingredients except the flour. Add half of the flour now, and mix everything well. Try to form the mixture into balls about the size of a walnut. If they hold together well, you're good to go. If you are unsure, add the rest of the flour.
Form the dough into balls, and roll each ball in a little flour. Drop the dumplings into the water you boiled the greens in and simmer them until they float, then about 1 minute more, about 5 or 6 minutes. Do this in two batches so you don't crowd the pot. Remove to a plate for the moment.
To finish, heat the butter in a large sauté pan and cook the garlic slices gently until they just barely brown on the edges, about 1 minute. Add the dumplings and shake the pan to roll them around in the hot butter and garlic. When they're nicely coated, serve with a squeeze of lemon.