Most of the olives I cure each year are done in a brine. But this year I tried curing green olives with lye. I was scared at first, but after some experiments, I’m now a believer.
spanish recipes
Dove Season: The Curtain Rises
The opening of dove season every year serves as a reunion with friends — and firearms — and the dove feast afterward is as much a Labor Day tradition as grilling and football.
Shark Fishing in San Francisco Bay
The only thing better than catching sharks? Eating them. We came home from shark fishing in San Francisco Bay with our first leopard sharks, which we soon learned are delicious: firm, juicy and white.
Mussel Mania
Another week, another spot along the Pacific Coast: This time I found a bonanza of wild mussels — as many as I wanted! Time for an old-style seafood gorge-a-thon…
Pheasant Escabeche
I’ve made a lot of escabeche in my time, and read scores of recipes from all over the world. This vinegary, bracing sauce make a perfect summer lunch or dinner and is ideal for weekly lunches because escabeche keeps for days in the fridge. It’s one of my go-to dishes when the heat arrives. But
How to Make Paprika at Home
Why bother making homemade paprika? Fair question. After all, the Spanish and Hungarians are better at it than we ever will be, right? Why not just call up Penzey’s or somesuch and order some? Well, I do. But making something like paprika at home is not so much something I did out of necessity as
On Cooking Squirrels
I have been working through my remaining game meats from last season, and I recently came upon a lone Western gray squirrel. Now most people would think, “ew!” and most hunters would think, “Ah, Hank’s leaving the bushy-tailed rat for last — not quite so tasty as venison or duck, eh?” Both thoughts would be
Lonzino, Air Cured Pork Loin
Pork is the lone meat I still buy, in no small part because I have access to heritage pork raised the old way, with a varied diet and generally darker and fattier meat than that crap you get at the supermarket. I do routinely shoot wild hogs, too, and they are excellent for this recipe. Wild