Blackened Catfish

Remember the blackened redfish craze back in the 1980s? I do, and I am here to revive that old dish, only this time with catfish caught in Northern California.

Reflections on Catfish

Catfish swim through a murky stream of race, class and regional rivalry. No other fish in North America defines where you stand in this world quite so much as the catfish. Eating one can border on being a political act.

Halibut Fish and Chips

If you don't love fish and chips, you are bad American -- and an even worse Englishman. I love fish and chips so much I make them at home, and have tinkered with my beer batter and my choice of fish for years. I think I've come pretty close to perfecting it.

Skate or Ray Wing with Brown Butter

If there is a fish in California waters more hated than a bat ray, I don't what it is. "Everyone" says the lowly bat ray is inedible, but I know better. After all, a ray is merely a narrow-tailed skate. And skate sells for $20 a pound -- when you can find it.

Thai Fish Curry

One of the best things to make when you have firm fish such as shark, swordfish or sturgeon is a stew. And in summer, I love me some Thai green curry when I catch sharks and sturgeon.

Perfect Seared Fish

Searing fish perfectly is a skill any cook should have, especially if you catch your own fish. I've been cooking fish this way for close to 30 years, both professionally and at home. Here's how to sear a fish, step by step.

Spaghetti with Crab Sauce

I first ate this astonishing spaghetti sauce in Massachusetts; my brother-in-law made it with lobster. This is my West Coast version, done with crab.

Hello Striper, My Old Friend

Fishing for striped bass means far more to me than merely chasing my dinner. Stripers have become a marker for the key moments in my life.

Clam Cakes Block Island

Clam cakes? Yep, they're a Rhode Island tradition. I eat them every time I go to Block Island. Think clam beignet, or a clam donut hole. They are sinfully good.

Chasing the Clam

I have dug clams my whole life. But nothing prepared me for the thrill of clamming for Pacific horseneck and butter clams. This wasn't foraging, this was hunting. And I love it.

White Sturgeon and Fine Dining

Fine dining is a high-wire act, a balance between art, technique and flavor. Miss one element, and the dish fails. This dish, I am proud to say, did not fail.