It’s fennel seed time here in NorCal. We have wild fennel everywhere here, and now is the time — before the first real rains — to gather the seeds, which have dried nicely.
This is my signature dish for dove season. Grilled dove is one of my favorites, and this Spanish-inspired take on them never fails to please.
I first made this stew for my friends Joe and Dorrie in Ohio, last season. I called it Portuguese squirrel stew at the time, but I really have no idea whether this qualifies as Portuguese. All I know is that it’s damn good.
This is a venerable dish, one of the great classics of French cuisine. Napoleon could have eaten this, as could Victor Hugo, Camus or Charles de Gaulle. Escoffier certainly ate salmis, and my recipe is based on his.
When life gives you the shanks from large deer, braise them whole. Cooked slow and low, shanks get so tender no knife is needed. This Austrian recipe is absolutely a keeper, if only for the sauerkraut alone: As you’ll see, it’s not your normal kraut.
Yes, it’s true. This is a vegetarian recipe… although it’d be good with some bacon. I have a fondness for unusual vegetables, and odd roots most of all. Many of my favorite oddities are in this simple ragout: Hamburg parsley, crosnes, salsify and hopniss.
Wood ducks are both beautiful and tasty; and if you know much about them, you know they love acorns above all else. So I felt I needed to make a wood duck recipe that highlighted that. Wood duck, with acorn dumplings and a winter salsa.
Fall has finally hit, and I find myself in the Upper Midwest: wild rice country. It seems amazing that after all these years, I don’t have a recipe pairing wild rice and duck, which is a classic. Well, better late than never.