Niter kibbeh, spiced Ethiopian butter, is not so much a sauce as a cooking medium, although it does make an intriguing simple sauce for pheasant, quail or white fish. Niter kibbeh (NIT-r KEB-beh) is the aromatic, clarified butter we cooked with at the Eritrean restaurant Horn of Africa I worked at in Madison many years
How-To (DIY stuff)
Duck Noodle Soup
A Cantonese duck noodle soup recipe that works with wild or farmed duck. Roast duck with noodles, a duck broth, mustard greens and ginger. Simple and refined.
How to Smoke Shad
If you don’t know how to debone a shad, and that’s not easy, smoked shad is the best way to eat this most bony of fishes. Shad is little more than a giant herring, and is nearly as oily as a mackerel or a bluefish — and oily fish make the best smoked fish. The
Seafood Stock
Seafood stock, usually crab stock for me, is a mainstay in my kitchen during Dungeness crab season, which in California runs from November through June. But a good seafood stock can be made with any sort of crab, or lobsters, crawfish, shrimp, or fish. Really what makes a nice seafood stock is a mix of
French Glace de Viande
How to make glace de viande at home. Glace de viande is what most people erroneously call demi glace, a thick, concentrated stock.
Lardo, Italian Cured Pork Fat
Lardo is one cured product you will almost never see done with wild game; I’m not saying it’s impossible, and I’ve done it, but to make really good lardo — which is cured and dried back fat — you need that fat to be at least an inch thick. This used to be rare even on
Puchero
Puchero is a hearty stew made all over the Spanish-speaking world. This is a Mexican puchero recipe uses beef or venison and lots of vegetables. Simple, satisfying and it keeps well.
Pulled Duck
Pulled duck is very close to pulled pork, and can be done in several ways for different results. Here’s how to make it at home. Works great with geese, too.