Get your copies now at Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Powell's or Indiebound.

Toulouse Style Duck or Goose Sausage

Photo by Hank Shaw

Toulouse-style sausages are the classic ingredient in cassoulet, that hearty bean, confit and pork extravaganza that is a hallmark of any self-respecting French cook’s repertoire. Traditional Toulouse sausages are all pork, and are minced by hand rather than ground — a fine option I do myself from time to time. But the sausage is also wonderful made with duck and pork fat and run through your coarsest die on your food grinder. (Incidentally, this is a great recipe for snow or Canada geese.)

What makes a Toulouse sausage unique? First the coarseness of it, but also its simplicity: It requires black pepper and garlic, that’s all. Many versions, such as the one Paula Wolfert describes in her masterful The Cooking of Southwest France, include nutmeg. Mine does, too, and if you can manage to grind your own nutmeg on the spot, you will notice a difference compared to pre-ground.

These links are excellent grilled slowly over hardwoods, roasted gently in a 350-degree oven, and, of course, as an element in cassoulet or other winter stews.

NOTE: If you are unfamiliar with making sausages at home, I wrote a good step-by-step on the technique over at my friend Elise’s site Simply Recipes. You can read it here.

Makes about 5 pounds, or 25 sausages

  • 4 pounds duck or goose meat (a little skin and fat is OK)
  • 1 pound pork fat
  • 1/2 cup white wine, chilled
  • 35 grams (about 2 tablespoons plus a teaspoon) Kosher salt
  • 5 grams (a scant teaspoon) Instacure No. 1 (optional)
  • 25 grams (about 2 tablespoons) chopped fresh garlic
  • 10 grams (about 2 tablespoons) ground black pepper
  • 1/2 nutmeg, freshly grated (about 1 teaspoon)
  • hog casings
  1. Chop the meat and fat into chunks of about 1-inch across, mince any skin you are using, then mix the garlic and all the spices together and toss with the meat and fat.
  2. Chill the meat and fat until it is almost frozen by putting it in the freezer for an hour or so.
  3. Take out some hog casings and set in a bowl of very warm water.
  4. Grind through your meat grinder (you can use a food processor in a pinch, but you will not get a fine texture) using the coarse die. If your room is warmer than 69 degrees, set the bowl for the ground meat into another bowl of ice to keep it cold.
  5. Add the wine and mix thoroughly either using a Kitchenaid on low for 60-90 seconds or with your (very clean) hands. This is important to get the sausage to bind properly. Once it is mixed well, put it back in the fridge for 30 minutes or so.
  6. Stuff the sausage into the casings all at once. Twist off links by pinching the sausage down and twisting it, first in one direction, and then with the next link, the other direction. Or you could tie them off with butcher’s string.
  7. Hang the sausages in a cool place for 4-8 hours (the colder it is, the longer you can hang them). If it is warm out, hang for one hour. Once they have dried a bit, put in the fridge until needed. They will keep for at least a week in the fridge.
  8. If you are freezing the sausages, wait a day before doing so. This will tighten up the sausages and help them keep their shape in the deep-freeze.

More Duck and Goose Recipes
More Sausage and Cured Meat Recipes

27 responses to “Toulouse Style Duck or Goose Sausage”

  1. Cecilia

    I’ll be putting in an order with my hunting friends for goose and duck. so I can try this recipe. Regarding the recipe, you mention the instacure is optional; will the flavor of the sausage be affected if left out?

  2. Alisha

    How long do you roast these in the oven for?

  3. Alisha

    They were amazing!!! We had them on toasted baguette with roasted mushrooms and over-easy eggs. Yum! I love your site- Thank You and good luck in the cook-off!

  4. Goose sausage, sauerkraut, and country mustard | Smoke Cure Pickle Brew

    […] out Hank Shaw’s recipes at Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, and I went with a variation on his Toulouse-Style Goose Sausages. Goose has the highest percentage of red muscle fibers in breast meat among meat birds (85% […]

  5. What’s gonna work? Teamwork! | Smoke Cure Pickle Brew

    […] 8-10 grams of diced garlic per pound, and I added some grated nutmeg (inspired by Hank Shaw’s Toulouse-style Goose Sausages). And this is where my helper came in handy: Learning about mechanical advantage Yep, it IS like […]

  6. Kurt A D Snyder

    This is almost the same as the way I’ve made it. Your’s is a mild version! I double the garlic, use half of the black pepper and add a tablespoon of dried chopped habenero. I also use pink salt instead of Instacure. I think it’s the same.

  7. Jon


    My wife does not eat beef or pork. Do you think it will taste OK if I substitute chicken fat or duck fat for the pork fat?

  8. Matt

    Can these be made with venison instead of duck?

  9. Sarah Sabo

    Could I use 4 pounds of meat and another type of animal fat instead of pork fat? I do not eat any part of swine but I would love to make homemade sausages using sheep casings for my family to enjoy.

  10. julle

    Why would you put in a curing salt if you are pan roasting these sausages? is it to improve the consistency?

  11. Steve

    A Tolouse pork sausage has become our “house” sausage. Always ready in quantity in the freezer for any invading army. Similar recipe to yours, but with more nutmeg and less pepper. I’ve been playing with the liquid in the recipe. We live in Upstate NY and make a lot of hard cider (from foraged fruit). So I tried hard cider in place of the usual white wine and the result was good. Then my wife started making kefir from local cows milk. Straight kefir also makes a good sausage (with a firmer texture from the milk protein) than wine or cider. It also contributes a “buttery” flavor to the sausage. The sweet spot seems to be a blend of kefir and cider, as the kefir improves the snap and the cider contributes vinous flavor which is lacking in the straight kefir.

  12. blake

    do you use 20 grams of fine ground black pepper?

    I’m weighing out a tablespoon and its around 5 grams

  13. blake

    Also one more question, I have prague powder #1. Can I use that instead of the instacure?

  14. Matthew Stauss

    Hello Hank. Chef Matthew from Grange here. I’ve been researching this duck boudin idea I have and I came across this Tolouse recipe here. I may use some of your calculator here! All I can find out there for a duck Boudin do not use duck meat only duck livers. I have a good stash of foie scraps and a lot of duck gelee from confits.I may add my rice and foie chunks to your Toulouse recipe and wet it down with some gelee to keep the rice from drying them out. Then I want to smoke them and pan sear in duck fat. And ideas or input Hank? Hope to see you in Grange again soon!

  15. Erick

    Thanks so much for a great recipe. My wife and I made these this evening. She rarely eats any of the waterfowl that I bring home. Had a bit of the sausage mix left over so we sampled it as patties. It was extremely good. We made the recipe with 4lbs of goose breast. We were using out KA grinder and stuffer. The grinder was great, however the stuffer gave us a bit of a hard time. We will be getting a stand alone sausage stuffer for future sausage making endeavours.

  16. Jim

    I just did a batch with pork loin to check the flavors before I committed to making a batch with duck. What a great, simple sausage! The nutmeg gives it a bratwurst note which means the duck version will make an appearance in my next dish of chacroutte garni’.

  17. Jim

    Erick, I came to the same conclusion today. The Smokehouse Chef SS grinder for the KA is a great addition but a stand alone stuffer would make life a lot easier.

  18. Jim

    The duck version is fantastic! Although it dried out too much in chacroutte, it was excellent in cassoulet. I think my favorite is as a breakfast sausage.

  19. Cathy manson

    My hubby isn’t supposed to have salt but he absolutely loves goose and any kind of sausage. Can I omit salt entirely or at least cut down the amount?

Leave a Reply