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This is an Italian classic, sugo d’anatra, or duck ragu. It’s a meaty pasta sauce that uses slow-cooked duck legs or wings for the meat, and is damn good with any pasta or polenta, but especially good with pumpkin-ricotta gnocchi.
As excited I was about roasting a seriously good chicken the other day, I might have been even more stoked for the leftovers, which became this Tuscan classic: tortellini en brodo, little dumplings filled with leftover chicken and cheese, served in a clear chicken broth.
Nothing is wasted in classical Italian cuisine, including the giblets of birds. This is a venerable variant of the traditional Bolognese sauce made with the hearts, livers and gizzards of ducks or chickens. A great use for giblets — and an easy one to serve the skeptical.
Stroganoff is a great example of what the Italians call brutti ma buoni, “ugly but good.” It ain’t the prettiest dish out there, but it’s pure comfort food joy. I make mine with venison backstrap, and it’s damn good.
This is a classic Italian recipe they use with pigeons, but it will work with squab, doves or even teal, too. Roasted birds, chopped fine and stuffed into an egg pasta, served with juniper butter with rosemary.
“Ever eat a pine tree? Many parts are edible.” That may be the most famous quote from the father of modern foraging, the late, great Euell Gibbons, who spoke those words in a Grape Nuts commercial back in the 1970s. He’s right, of course, and I’d like to walk you through just which parts he’s talking […]
When life gives you mushrooms, make tortellini out of them. OK, maybe tortellini are not everyone’s first thought when it comes to cooking fresh mushrooms. But I love these little packets of love, and making them with morels is especially lovely.
I’d heard about this for a few years: Salt curing egg yolks, then drying them and grating them over pasta. But I finally got around to it after reading a new charcuterie book. And lemme tell ya, if there’s anything better than grated cheese over pasta, this is it.