- Wild Game
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This is the “little black dress” of salami. It’s meat, fat, salt, black pepper and garlic. Nothing else. A basic salami is a measure of its maker. Master this and then add all the fancy spices. Or not. After all, the spare, simple black cocktail dress is a classic for a reason.
Smoking a lake trout (a/k/a mackinaw) is a lot like smoking a salmon, but I recently had the chance to smoke a couple fish in Manitoba, Canada with some Cree Indians and learned a lot about the process.
If there is one perfect recipe for Canada goose breasts, this is it. Pastrami. It’s a staple in delis all over the country, and it is normally cured beef (like corned beef), that’s then coated in coriander and black pepper and smoked. Well, it’s just as good with a goose breast!
Boudin, the ultimate Cajun comfort food. Not quite a sausage, boudin is more like jambalaya in a hog casing. You eat it on crackers or just by hand, right out of the casing. I learned how to make it at Legnon’s in Lafayette, and here’s my version.
Exactly 20 years ago I found myself in South Africa, alone and afraid. An act of kindness and bravery helped me through that scary night, an act I repaid in the only way I knew how. By cooking.
I’d heard about this for a few years: Salt curing egg yolks, then drying them and grating them over pasta. But I finally got around to it after reading a new charcuterie book. And lemme tell ya, if there’s anything better than grated cheese over pasta, this is it.
Wild turkey meat can get dry if you don’t do things just right. But a long brine and a cool smoke does wonders for the breast meat. Trussing improves things even more, and the result is a primo sandwich meat for your lunches!
This was the first sausage I ever learned to make, in Wisconsin at the side of a man who was, for a time, my uncle-in-law. It’s a traditional Sheboygan style “white brat,” and while this version is made with wild turkey, it can also be made with pork or veal.