Blackened fish is so 1980s, I know, but I still love it. Here I use catfish, a Cajun staple, but you can blacken any fish sturdy enough for this ferocious cooking process. Blackened redfish is the classic example. Alongside the fish is Cajun succotash, called maque choux.
Remember the blackened redfish craze back in the 1980s? I do, and I am here to revive that old dish, only this time with catfish caught in Northern California.
Catfish swim through a murky stream of race, class and regional rivalry. No other fish in North America defines where you stand in this world quite so much as the catfish. Eating one can border on being a political act.