- Wild Game
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It’s time to catch black cod, a/k/a sablefish or butterfish out here in the North Pacific. If you’ve ever eaten this fish, it’s like eating silk — mild, velvety and just a little oily. This means it’s perfect for smoking.
I love fried clams. A lot. Maybe too much. My sisters will attest to this. Well, this is how they make fried clams in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where I’ve been eating giant baskets of them since at least 1974. This recipe is so good you’ll want to head out to the clam flats ASAP.
When life gives you mushrooms, make tortellini out of them. OK, maybe tortellini are not everyone’s first thought when it comes to cooking fresh mushrooms. But I love these little packets of love, and making them with morels is especially lovely.
Some of you know I started cooking professionally in an Ethiopian restaurant. Well, this was my absolute favorite thing to make when I worked there. It’s a hybrid stew/stir-fry called tibs. I make it with venison now, but it was damn good with beef, lamb or goat, too.
There’s a lot of talk out there about people overharvesting ramps, the most dominant wild onion in the East. Some of that talk is true. Here’s how to responsibly harvest wild onions of any sort, as well as how to prepare, store and preserve them.
Morel hunting the way I do it is a lonely affair. Miles walked in a beaten, burned landscape. A morel here, a morel there. It’s not the bonanza of a big burn, but I wouldn’t give it up for anything.
Exactly 20 years ago I found myself in South Africa, alone and afraid. An act of kindness and bravery helped me through that scary night, an act I repaid in the only way I knew how. By cooking.
I’d heard about this for a few years: Salt curing egg yolks, then drying them and grating them over pasta. But I finally got around to it after reading a new charcuterie book. And lemme tell ya, if there’s anything better than grated cheese over pasta, this is it.