This is something fun and refined to make with smoked shad. Rillettes are basically a rough pate — you spread it on crackers or toast. Pates tend to be smoother, and I like the texture of a rillette better.

This recipe takes a little work because you need to pick all the bones off the smoked shad fillets. But if you substitute in smoked trout, smoked mackerel or smoked bluefish, it’ll come together in a snap.

The amounts of the ingredients here are approximate: You need to season and taste this as it comes together to get it to your liking.

Once made, these shad rillettes will keep for more than a month in the fridge if you pack them tightly and cover with a layer of lard.

Makes enough to serve 12-14

• 2 pounds smoked shad, trout, mackerel or bluefish
• 4 tablespoons lard
• Juice of a lemon
• 5 minced sage leaves
• 1 teaspoon salt

1. Pull the skin off the fillets and break into flakes. Pick through shad to get out as many bones as you can.
2. Put the fish in a food processor and buzz in pulses until the fish is pulverized, maybe 3-4 pulses – don’t buzz it into a paste!
3. Put the fish to a large bowl and add the lard. If you cannot find fresh rendered lard (don’t use hydrogenated lard!), which is typically sold at Latino markets, use good unsalted butter.
4. With a potato masher, pound the lard into the fish, mixing all the way. When it begins to come together, add the sage and half the salt. Pound and mix a bit more, then taste. Add more salt and sage if you want.
5. If for some reason the mixture is looking flaky or dry, add some more lard. I found 4 tablespoons worked perfectly for 8 smoked shad fillets.
6. Toward the end of the mixing and pound process, add the lemon juice to taste. You want it to just give the rillettes some sharpness, not be overly lemony.
7. Serve with table water crackers, on toast, or as a stuffing for sole.

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