Seedlings
One look at a garden will tell you something about the mind of the gardener. A well-tended garden is a symbol of stability, and of peace. A weedy one betrays neglect or indifference. Now, after a long time fallow, my garden is full of seedlings.
Steelhead with Sorrel Sauce and Salsify
Salmon and sorrel sauce is a French classic, a harbinger of spring. This is my updated, albeit fancy version, done with steelhead trout from the American River. Getting the fish cooked perfectly is pretty easy with this method. It’s the sorrel sauce that’s tricky.
Maybe It’s a Tuber: Crosnes
I have a thing for odd garden vegetables, especially roots and tubers. Meet Stachys Affinis, the crosnes or Chinese artichoke. Looks like a grub, tastes like water chestnut. Cool.
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes
We’re heading into Tuber Time, and one of my favorites are jerusalem artichokes, which are native to North America. Although these tubers will keep for months in the fridge, the best way to preserve them long-term is to pickle them. I’ve been making this recipe for years, and I am pretty proud of it.
Squash Soup with Bacon
There are a million recipes for pumpkin or squash soup on the Internet, but I’d like to think mine is a little different — thanks to bacon and creme fraiche. You stew the squash with diced bacon, then puree everything. It’s made of win.
Pheasant Peperonata
Peperonata is normally a side dish of sweet peppers, onions and tomato; it’s like an Italian stir-fry. It is a perfect dish for late fall, when everyone’s peppers come ripe. I boosted this recipe up to a main course by adding a little shredded poached pheasant breast. Clean, tasty and easy.
Poached Dove with Roasted Peppers
Just because you’ve skinned and breasted your doves does not mean you can’t make beautiful food with them. This is a Spanish-inspired food
Fig Jam with Ouzo
My fig tree is exploding with fruit right now, so I decided to revise my recipe for an old favorite: Fig jam, spiked with ouzo, lemon and bay. I don’t eat too much jam and jelly, but this one is absolutely worth your effort.
Grouse Salad with Barley and Tomatoes
Another good recipe for the dog days of August: Grouse salad with Sungold tomatoes and barley. It’s meant to be eaten warm or at room temperature, on the porch at sunset, beer in hand.
Tomato-Fennel Pasta Sauce
Taking a break from what has become the Summer of Salmon, this is my go-to summertime pasta sauce recipe. A mix of fresh or preserved tomatoes, lots of fresh fennel and a little bit of anise-flavored liqueur brighten up this sauce for warm days.












