Pickled Mustard Greens
Ever since I began studying Chinese food a few years ago, I noticed how much fermented and pickled foods factor into their cooking. Most of us know about Korean kimchi and many have had Japanese pickles before, but Chinese pickles are still relatively rare here in America. One of my favorites — and one that [...]
Trout with Morels and Wild Onions
Trout with morels, ramps and fiddleheads is a classic combination – all are in season at the same time, and in the same place. Even in the High Sierra, we have our own rendition, with bracken fiddleheads and Sierra wild onions. I call this dish Sierra Spring.
Venison Tartare
Beef or venison tartare is the “trust fall” of the culinary world: Raw meat and a raw egg yolk. If your ingredients are not impeccable, things can go very, very wrong. But done right, this is at once a primal and exciting little appetizer.
Swedish Spring Salmon with Vattlingon and Peas
Behold, one of the most vividly beautiful recipes I’ve made in a long time. Salmon Swedish style, with vattlingon. It screams Christmas, right? Wrong. This dish can only be made in springtime. Read more to find out why…
Duck Breast with Turnips and Rye Spaetzle
This is my version of a dish I had at Perbacco in San Francisco a few weeks ago. It’s so simple, but is a great combination. And if you’ve never made homemade spaetzle, it’s easier than you think.
Salmon Rillettes
One of the cool things about salmon is that it is rich enough to make rillettes with, especially when you use belly meat and the trim from around the bones. This is a pretty classic version, with both smoked and fresh salmon or steelhead trout.
Nettle Ravioli
Beyond the fact that stinging nettles are a superfood, they are just so damn pretty! Blanched, they lose their sting, and take on a lurid emerald. That green makes an exciting pasta — and a great ravioli filling. Yep, this is a double dose of nettle goodness.
Buttermilk Fried Quail
If you like fried chicken, you’ll love fried quail. This is a Southern style recipe, where you marinate the quail in buttermilk, then fry it in a cast-iron pan. Pure Southern comfort food…
Fish Risotto
If there is one episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” that sticks with me, it is his trip to Venice. In that episode he has risotto di go, an ethereal dish that hinges on a magical fish broth. I’ve remade this risotto here with striped bass. It will transport you.
Wild Onion Kimchi
It’s wild onion season pretty much everywhere, and there happens to be a cool kind of Korean kimchi that uses green onions. So I made a big batch last month and let it ferment. Lo and behold, it’s awesome – especially as an accompaniment to fish.
