- Wild Game
Pasta, Risotto, Gnocchi
Ruminations on how the Italians make grain an art form, with recipes
This is an Italian classic, sugo d’anatra, or duck ragu. It’s a meaty pasta sauce that uses slow-cooked duck legs or wings for the meat, and is damn good with any pasta or polenta, but especially good with pumpkin-ricotta gnocchi.
As excited I was about roasting a seriously good chicken the other day, I might have been even more stoked for the leftovers, which became this Tuscan classic: tortellini en brodo, little dumplings filled with leftover chicken and cheese, served in a clear chicken broth.
Nothing is wasted in classical Italian cuisine, including the giblets of birds. This is a venerable variant of the traditional Bolognese sauce made with the hearts, livers and gizzards of ducks or chickens. A great use for giblets — and an easy one to serve the skeptical.
This is a classic Italian recipe they use with pigeons, but it will work with squab, doves or even teal, too. Roasted birds, chopped fine and stuffed into an egg pasta, served with juniper butter with rosemary.
“Ever eat a pine tree? Many parts are edible.” That may be the most famous quote from the father of modern foraging, the late, great Euell Gibbons, who spoke those words in a Grape Nuts commercial back in the 1970s. He’s right, of course, and I’d like to walk you through just which parts he’s talking […]
When life gives you mushrooms, make tortellini out of them. OK, maybe tortellini are not everyone’s first thought when it comes to cooking fresh mushrooms. But I love these little packets of love, and making them with morels is especially lovely.
Cardoons are an old relative of the artichoke, tasting like a mash-up of artichoke hearts, celery and endive. They can be tricky to work with, so when I found a recipe for cardoon risotto I had to try it.
My mom makes a mean lasagna. It was one of our staple meals when I was a kid. This is essentially her recipe, handed down to me, only I use ground venison instead of ground beef. I hope you like it, ’cause I sure do!