- Wild Game
The common meadow mushroom has not been so common for me; I’d searched in vain for years to find them. Until last week, when Holly came home with a bushel of the mushrooms we call “pinks.” I cooked them up using a classic Escoffier recipe, and lemme tell ya: It was worth the wait.
Anyone who knows me will not be surprised at all to learn that the first thing I cooked from the yearling antelope I shot in Wyoming was the shanks. I love me some shank. Since the meat was so light and tender, I cooked the shanks “forty garlic clove” style, like the famous chicken dish.
I love crepinettes. Think of them as sausage patties wrapped in a blanket of fat. Alas, I rarely get to make them, as I don’t really buy meat much anymore. But when I shot a wild pig this past spring, I got myself a surprise: wild caul fat!
If there is a fish in California waters more hated than a bat ray, I don’t what it is. “Everyone” says the lowly bat ray is inedible, but I know better. After all, a ray is merely a narrow-tailed skate. And skate sells for $20 a pound — when you can find it.
I first learned about ventreche, a French bacon, from my friend Kate Hill. It is a very simple thing: just pork belly, salt, pepper and smoke. But that is the source of its beauty.
I’ve grown sorrel in my backyard for years. How is it I never made sorrel soup? Time to rectify that.
I am a huge fan of offal, and this extends to venison. Here’s an easy, non-threatening way to use a bit more of the deer you bring home. After all, who doesn’t like a little tongue?
Steak Diane may be retro, but it’s a perfect recipe for venison backstraps. Normally made with beef, the “Diane” in the dish is Diana, Roman Goddess of the Hunt. So venison just seemed right…
Verjus, or verjuice, is the juice of unripe grapes. It is a classic French alternative to vinegar, and it is pretty easy to make. Here’s how.
Sometimes I can’t do justice to my crazy ideas on the first go-round. Sometimes I need to fail a couple times before I nail the dish. I am happy to say I’ve nailed “Oyster, Oyster, Oyster.”