- Wild Game
It’s time to catch black cod, a/k/a sablefish or butterfish out here in the North Pacific. If you’ve ever eaten this fish, it’s like eating silk — mild, velvety and just a little oily. This means it’s perfect for smoking.
Exactly 20 years ago I found myself in South Africa, alone and afraid. An act of kindness and bravery helped me through that scary night, an act I repaid in the only way I knew how. By cooking.
I’d heard about this for a few years: Salt curing egg yolks, then drying them and grating them over pasta. But I finally got around to it after reading a new charcuterie book. And lemme tell ya, if there’s anything better than grated cheese over pasta, this is it.
Wild turkey meat can get dry if you don’t do things just right. But a long brine and a cool smoke does wonders for the breast meat. Trussing improves things even more, and the result is a primo sandwich meat for your lunches!
This was the first sausage I ever learned to make, in Wisconsin at the side of a man who was, for a time, my uncle-in-law. It’s a traditional Sheboygan style “white brat,” and while this version is made with wild turkey, it can also be made with pork or veal.
It’s tough to cure a whole ham on a wild pig: You’d need to scald and scrape it in the field, and that ain’t happening. But you can make a traditional Easter ham with a skinless piece! Here’s my version, smoked and glazed with honey.
Fromage de tete. Coppa di testa. Presskopf. Brawn. Anything but “head cheese.” Only that’s what this is. This is the head of a wild boar I shot, cooked and pressed into a terrine pan. It’s actually damn good. No, really.
It’s sturgeon time here in the West, and whether you catch your own or buy farm-raised fish, smoked sturgeon is one of the great smoked fish of the world. Here’s how I make it.