Ramp, Oregano and Almond Pesto

Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Pesto can be made from really anything: We’ve all seen pesto made with basil of course, but you can also use mint, parsley, cilantro and other herbs. In this case I use ramps (or other wild green onions) and some oregano. This is a great use for ramps of course, but also three-cornered leeks, “lawn onions,” or chives, or really any green onion or scallion.

When I make pesto I want it to last a while in the fridge, so I blanch the greens first. Doing this goes a long way to preventing the dreaded “brown pesto” problem we all face with unused pesto. Blanching kills the enzymes that cause browning.

Here’s how I blanch my greens for this recipe:

1. You will need two or three big handfuls of fresh ramp leaves, about 2 cups, chopped more or less — only you’re not chopping them yet. Get a huge pot of water boiling and add a handful of salt.
2. Toss the ramp leaves and the oregano into the boiling water. Stir around and boil for 30 seconds to 1 minute.
3. Fish them out with a skimmer or the tongs and immediately dump them into a big bowl with ice water in it. Once they are cool, put them in a colander to strain.
4. Get a cloth towel, like a tea towel, and put the herbs and ramps in it. Wrap one end of the towel one way, then the other end of the towel the other and squeeze out as much moisture as you can.

My favorite way to use this pesto is in pasta, especially nettle pasta, or spread on toast. It’s also wonderful with white meats like chicken or pheasant, or with firm fish such as sturgeon, swordfish or tuna.

Photo by Hank Shaw

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook time: 1 minute, for blanching.

• leaves from about 2 dozen ramps or other wild onions
• 2/3 cup toasted almonds
• 1/3 cup grated cheese, such as pecorino
• 2 dozen sprigs of fresh oregano, leaves only
• Salt
• About 1/2 cup olive oil (use the good stuff)

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1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add enough salt to make it taste like the sea. Set a large bowl of ice water nearby. Plunge the ramp leaves and oregano into the boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and quickly cool them down in the ice water. Gently dry with a tea cloth or paper towels.
2. Chop the ramp leaves and oregano and set aside. Pesto is best made with a mortar and pestle, thus the name, which means “pound.” You can of course make this in a food processor, but it will not be the same. To start, add the almonds and crush lightly — as they are roundish, they will jump out of your mortar if you get too vigorous.
3. Add the salt, cheese, ramps and oregano and commence pounding. Mash everything together, stirring with the pestle and mashing well so it is all fairly uniform.
4. Start adding olive oil. How much? Depends on how you are using your pesto. If you are making a spread, maybe 1/4 cup. If a pasta sauce, double that. Either way, you add 1 tablespoon at a time, pounding and stirring to incorporate it. Serve as a spread on bread, as an additive to a minestrone (like this one), as a pasta sauce or as a dollop on fish or poultry.

NOTE: If you are using a food processor, add everything but the oil and pulse to combine. Then, turn the motor on the processor and drizzle in the olive oil. Be careful not to let the mixture become a smooth paste!

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