Crab Risotto
We’re in the thick of our Dungeness crab season here in California, and crab risotto is one of my favorite things to do with them.
Konigsberger Klopse, Wild Boar Meatballs
Who doesn’t love meatballs? Konigsberger klopse is a classic German meatball recipe that historically uses veal, beef or pork. I made them with wild boar.
Pheasant and Dumplings
I never used to think chicken and dumplings was worth making. But I was wrong, and the dish is even better with pheasant or grouse.
A Hopeful Endeavor
Nothing is quite so driven by hope as the act of gathering food from the wild. Anyone who has ever hunted, fished or foraged knows the feeling that the bonanza could come at any moment.
A Teasing Taste
Wapato, arrowhead, katniss, duck potato: Sagittaria is an aquatic tuber of American marshes said to be the equal of a potato. I have never found it. But a friend sent me some, so I got my first tantalizing taste.
Eating Everything But the Quack
Duck season is winding down, and we’re in our groove: Hunting, plucking, dressing and cooking the waterfowl we bring home. Over the years I’ve found uses for every part of the bird.
Snow Geese, Lords of the Air
Snow geese rule the winter skies in Northern California. They are among the hardest birds to hunt — and are among the most challenging to cook.
Of Trumpets, Hedgehogs and Yellowfeet
The winter mushrooms of California’s North Coast are popping in earnest: Hedgehogs, black trumpets, yellowfoot chanterelles and candy caps!
Stifado, Greek Rabbit Stew
Stifado, the iconic Greek rabbit stew, is a beguiling mix of sweet, spicy and savory. Sweet wine and lots of olive oil make this dish, as does a good brace of cottontails.
Hungarian Venison Goulash
It seems that there is no one “authentic” Hungarian goulash. But this one, made with venison, comes pretty close to the old recipes, csipetke dumplings and everything.
