Sea Beans, Salicornia, Samphire, Pickleweed

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sea beans and ice plant
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Salicornia maritima, or sea beans, and I go way back.

Way, way back, all the way to my childhood in the 1970s. We first met when I was probably six or seven years old, when my family and I dug clams in Great Salt Pond on Block Island, a little island off the coast of Rhode Island. Hard shell clams, the quahogs, lived in the sandy shore off the beach. But soft shell clams, the steamers, lived closer to shore, where there was a little more mud.

An especially good place for steamers was right where a little spring emptied into the bay. And stretched out alongside the runoff of that spring was a gigantic bed of what my family called saltwort. I remember munching on the tips of this plant as a boy, and loving the salty, crunchy brininess they had. It was like eating low tide — if low tide didn’t stink of rotting seaweed, fish and crabs.

Years later, on my honeymoon (yes, I was married for a time), I found that patch again; I was happy to see it had survived for so long. I introduced my then-wife to saltwort, and I remember her liking them. I did the same with Holly when I finally got a chance to take her to Block Island. Holly likes saltwort, too.

It was only when I began writing about foraging that I discovered our family’s name for this saltwort plant was fairly unusual. I also learned that this is a vegetable of a thousand names: sea beans, pickleweed, sea asparagus, samphire, glasswort, chicken feet, etc, etc. Probably its best name is salicornia, as all the various species of this salt-lover are in the genus Salicornia.

Its many names are partly an outgrowth of this plant’s universality. It will grow in protected salt marshes wherever they are found, on all continents except Antarctica. Most people think of salicornia as a seaside thing, and, yes, it is most common at the shore.

But species of this plant grow widely in the alkali marshes of Utah and the rest of the Great Basin, near salty springs in upstate New York, and in the alkali marshes in Manitoba.

Once you spot salicornia, you will never forget it, or mistake it for anything else. It doesn’t look like it ought to be eaten. The plant looks (and is) prehistoric: no leaves, just a sprawling, succulent series of many-jointed fingers reaching for sunlight while their feet are bathed in sand and salt water.

Oddly, however, sea beans would rather be in your garden, or at least its close cousin the Salsola genus would. You can buy seeds for it, and I grew it one year. The plant loses a lot of its salty tang in sweet soil, but it grows much larger and fuller than it does in the salt marsh. Apparently salicornia has staked out terrain otherwise inhospitable to other plants as its favored growing spot. Why it cannot compete with other plants in nicer neighborhoods is a mystery.

Many of you already know about sea beans, which is the newest, trendiest name for salicornia; by most accounts, the “sea bean” moniker is an outgrowth of the restaurant trade. Salicornia is in no way a bean, but it does have that nice snap like a good green bean. You can buy it in many farmer’s markets along the coasts and in major cities.

Raw, salicornia is crunchy and very salty. (I even make an herby, natural salt from dried, powdered sea beans) It can be tough to properly clean the little stalks though, so I blanch the plant in boiling water for 30 to 90 seconds, then shock it in a bowl of ice water. Once you have your blanched sea beans, all you really need to do is dress them with your best olive oil and add a little lemon juice, balsamic vinegar or other acidic component, plus a few grinds of black pepper.

Sea beans on the stem, detail
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Salads are where this vegetable shines, but I’ve also seen them chopped and added to potato salad, stir-fried Chinese style and sauteed and served as a bed for fish or shellfish. It is also ideal for pickling, so much so that pickleweed is another name for salicornia. Incidentally, (I have a recipe for pickled sea beans in my first book, Hunt, Gather, Cook.)

Do not cook salicornia for more than a few minutes, or it will get flabby, and the crunch (as well as the salty hit) is really what this vegetable is all about.

sea bean salad
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Look for saltwort between March and September, and pick only the top few inches of the little plant, which can get bushy over the years. Try to avoid the reddish stalks, as they are often tough. You want the parts that are the most tender: The bottoms of the plant get woody, and a little silica thread grows up the center of the stalk over time that strengthens the plant, but acts like dental floss if you eat it. Try not to walk right through a bed of salicornia, as you will break it with your footsteps. Forage around the edges.

Once you collect your sea beans, put them in a plastic bag in the fridge with a damp paper towel around them. They will last more than a week that way. Once blanched, they freeze well, too.

sea bean salad
4.88 from 8 votes

Sea Bean Salad

Salicornia, sea beans, samphire, whatever, are a perfect salad green. Mostly gathered along salt marshes, this plant is naturally salty and very crunchy. It can be bought from March to September, depending on where you are, but early summer is the best time to play with this veggie. Most people don't like raw salicornia, and I prefer it boiled for 30 to seconds, then shocked in ice water: This removes some of the salt, and sets that pretty jade color. You can then eat the sea beans as-is, or quickly stir-fry or pickle them. This is a simple sea bean salad, dressed with really good olive oil, chile, garlic and a little lemon juice. A crumbly cheese like feta or a Mexican cotija adds some richness.
Course: Salad
Cuisine: American
Servings: 4 people
Author: Hank Shaw
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 1 minute
Total Time: 16 minutes

Ingredients 

  • 1 pound sea beans
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil, use high quality oil here
  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
  • Black pepper to taste
  • 1/4 cup crumbled feta or Mexican cotija cheese
  • Lemon or lime juice to taste

Instructions 

  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the sea beans for 1 minute. Transfer them to a bowl of ice water to cool. Let them rest a few minutes. Lay out a tea towel or other cloth towel. Pick through the sea beans to remove any stray bits of seaweed, and to remove any discolored bits or woody bottoms. Use only the top 2-5 inches of the plant. Lay the cleaned sea beans on the towel to dry.
  • Pat the sea beans dry and toss with everything but the lemon juice. Add lemon juice until the salad is as tangy as you like it. Serve cold or at room temperature. This will keep in the fridge for a couple days.

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

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About Hank Shaw

Hey there. Welcome to Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, the internet’s largest source of recipes and know-how for wild foods. I am a chef, author, and yes, hunter, angler, gardener, forager and cook. Follow me on Instagram and on Facebook.

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44 Comments

  1. I saw fresh salicornia plants for sale on ebay. I have been meaning to buy them but I am not sure.. I am too impatient to grow them on my own. Besides i heard they grow best in sea breeze.

  2. I get it for free from the marshes around. There are so many of them here, where I live, in Algarve – Portugal. I just recently learnt that it is edible and I’ve fallen in love with it 🙂

  3. Just bought some from a street market in Pontorson, normandy France from a Rastafarian vendor. He had it for tasting with pâté de canard (duck pate) absolutely delicious. He also supplied or with a glass of white wine….so off to the boucherie we went with our 4euro small jar to get the pate. Just having it now …. Didn’t know about it and live just near where they collect it in the le Mont st Michel Baie.
    Try it!
    Marilyn

  4. Would love to try growing these sea beans. I live in the Boston area, and would like to connect with Nazli to find out about the seeds.

  5. Hi Margot,

    I can provide them if you want to purchase. Contact me if you are interested. I live in Boston, and probably can mail in US.

  6. I’ve been looking for the seeds online but can’t find them. Can you tell me where you purchased yours?

  7. It’s very popular in coastal Turkey. The name “sea bean” might be a rough translation of its name in Turkish, “deniz börülcesi.” Deniz – sea, börülce is blackeyed peas, which are also eaten in the green bean stage here, and are only a little thicker than Salicornia. The typical treatment here is to boil it (perhaps a bit too much but in this part of the world, green things are either salad or they’re dead, or both) and top it with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. I like a little finely chopped garlic mixed in as well. Good stuff!

  8. great post! so nice to finally get some background about this delicious seabean!
    i get it here in germany imporzed from mexico but didn’t know what it was called in english. love it in salad and in seafood sauces! thanks hank.

  9. Rebecca: Yep, they grow pretty much everywhere.

    Sharon: Way cool! Pretty honored that Betty would read my book. She is the real deal…

    Tacowalker: Sea beans and poke tuna? Great idea! May have to play with that one.

    LR: Yeah, I’d avoid picking sea beans in the SF Bay. I pick mine outside the Bay, farther north. Find some little inlets or coves or bays up and down the coast and you may find a nice, clean patch.

  10. I see these around S.F. Bay, but what concerns about water pollution should I take into consideration before harvesting them? It looks as if they are easy to grow, and I could collect and grow at home, too.

  11. I agree with the Hawaii assessment. We were recently at the Grand Wailea resort and remember the sea asparagus term. It was a special that evening and my better half said it was wonderful.

  12. Very popular here in Ireland, especially in the West, and typically called samphire. Delicious stuff.

  13. Good eating isnt it, samphire was very popular in Victorian cuisine and its making a bit of a resurgence here.
    SBW

  14. I am fairly sure that is the same stuff I recently had in Hawaii. They called it locally harvested sea asparagus. Exact look and wikipedia seems to agree with me. It was especially good in Ahi Poké from a restaurant on the beach. It is a unique and fun vegetable.

  15. my family knows and love Block island as well, and last summer while vacationing there I came across a back issue of Edible Rhody with an article by you in it! Been meaning to make that connection ever since! Wish I had known about saltwort then! maybe next trip, thanks for sharing.

  16. I’ve been looking for it in LA since I moved here from the desert. Though I’m somewhat reluctant to eat ANYTHING from the Santa Monica bay… It just doesn’t seem right to buy wild things from the market- like it takes all the fun out of the experience :).

    Do you know if they actually grow this far south?