A Vegan Dinner Served by a Hunter
Aug 3rd, 2009 | By Hank Shaw | Category: The Garden | Comments | 33 Comments |
Eating is a political act. Whether you choose to eat meat or not, care about where it comes from or not, eat local, eat American, seasonal, vegetarian or vegan, what you eat says much about who you are, as the old lawyer Brillat-Savarin has suggested.
I am not, nor ever will become, a vegan. I learned this last weekend. My classroom was my kitchen, and the test a multi-course vegan meal I made at the behest of my friend Jennifer, who happens to be the lobbyist for the Humane Society of the United States here in Sacramento.
Jennifer and I got to know each other last year, and she stands apart as one of the few anti-hunters who has taken the time to listen to why I hunt and has accepted, more or less, what Holly and I do to put meat on the table; it doesn’t mean she likes it, but, as she puts it, on the continuum of meat-eaters “I have less quarrel with Hank than just about anybody else.” (And to my hunting friends who may be irked that I let an HSUS person in my home, you should know that she will catch the same shit from her side… )
At any rate, a while back she wondered aloud if I was even capable of cooking a vegan meal. I said sure — it’s a challenge I’d be happy to accept. We set the date and invited several other friends, vegetarian and not, and I planned the menu. And then it immediately became apparent that veganism is most definitely not vegetarianism.
I eat vegetarian all the time. In fact, despite our constant hunting and fishing, we probably eat less meat than the average American. For me it is typically six or seven meals a week — out of 21. But there is a lot to be said for eggs and dairy and cheese.
As I paged through my favorite vegetarian dishes, I kept mumbling the same refrain to myself. “Damn. That has eggs as a binder. Shit. This really, really, needs cheese.” And so on. I know now why there is no culture on Earth that is vegan. Not one.
Which made me think about the vegan choice even harder. According to a 2008 Vegetarian Times survey, vegans are 0.5 percent of the US adult population, vegetarians 3.2 percent — and, according to the US Fish & Wildlife Service, hunters make up 6 percent of the population. (Hat tip to Holly for sussing this one out. I love my data geek grrrl!).
This makes vegans an elite, in a way. They are the high priestesses of vegetarianism (yes, most are women), on a Vegangelical mission to convince us, mired in a meat-eating Gomorrah, to see the light and step away from animal products altogether — even honey, for some. (Again, hat tip to Holly for “Vegangelical;” she thinks a lot about food politics.)
Mercifully, Jennifer’s profession is politics, the art of the possible. This tempers any urges she may have to preach to a den of hunters. She rightly realizes that the best way to further her goal — that we eat fewer animals — is to convince seven “normal” people to forego meat once a week, rather than to convince one person to give it up entirely.
And, as my day job also is in politics, I can see that she and I are allied in this. I loathe factory farms but understand they are necessary for Americans to eat the amount of meat we do. We ought to eat less, at least a little, at least for health reasons, if not moral. As for myself, I would happily give up a day of meat-eating to better support the John Bledsoe’s of the world; and in so doing, we will enjoy far better meat quality – and the animals will enjoy a far better quality of life, while they live.
Whoa, heavy stuff for a dinner party, eh? Pretty much combines both the religious and politics prohibitions… Maybe so, but it mostly ran as an undercurrent beneath lighter conversation. I am always more interested in my friends eating and drinking well than about what their politics may be. And, while I had to scuttle all kinds of vegetarian options I’d wanted to serve because of the dairy-eggs issue, I did come up with menu I was happy with:(Click on the hot links for the recipes):
- Antipasti: Pickled sweet onions, balsamic pickled beets, pickled fennel agrodolce, sweet peppers roasted over a wood fire, home-cured olives, tomato ‘salami,’ and my garage-dried tomatoes in olive oil.
- A very traditional Andalucian gazpacho.
- A Persian-inspired herb salad with a walnut vinaigrette.
- My rapidly becoming world-famous Sicilian dried zucchini.
- A porcini sugo with fresh Cherokee Purple tomatoes served over my homemade barley tagliatelle.
- Grilled yard-long beans marinated in olive oil and served with fleur de sel.
- Pilsner Urquell beer bread with maple syrup served with wild blackberries stewed in elderberry syrup.
All in all, I did not miss meat too much, although this was just one meal. I am certain I’d be reaching for the bacon ice cream after a few meatless days. When I was putting this together, I wanted to avoid food I’d need to vegan-ize and rather stay with dishes that just happen to be vegan. I find too much vegan food sold on the market or in cookbooks either has been heavily processed or heavily manipulated to simulate meat; what this says I can only hazard a guess.
My favorite dish of the night was the porcini sugo. I did not grate cheese over it last weekend, but the recipe I wrote down calls for it because, well, this sauce kept telling me it wanted a blanket of Pecorino and I had to tell it no; I felt sad about this. Next time I might also add a few lardons of guanciale or pancetta.
The pasta, again, made without egg, was more brittle than I’d wanted it, so it was in shorter strands than I’d planned. (it broke in half when I took it from the rack) Still, it tasted good. Earthy, to match the porcini.
My dried zucchini are always a hit, and this time I added some caramelized sweet onions, which worked well. Even though I served on little plates, each person got a full zucchini’s worth as a serving. This dish is deceptively filling.
I was also really happy with the herb salad. I bought some parsley from the farmer’s market and added it to whatever I could find in the garden: mint, basil, sorrel, borage, garlic chives, etc. It is a sharp, strong salad, and I am happy that I guessed correctly that a walnut vinaigrette would tame it. This one’s a keeper.
I want to thank Jennifer for making me whip up gazpacho again. I had not made one since I lived in Minnesota, and that’s a shame. Cold soups are underappreciated in the US, but everyone seems to like gazpacho. I kept the oil and bread in this one to a minimum, which lightened the soup – and allowed everyone to eat a big bowl and still move on to the next course.
Big fan of this dessert. Beer bread, which I have been making since my friend Joey Whitcomb gave me the recipe back in Wisconsin in 1992, is the easiest bread in the world to make. I did a rich, Guinness-laced version for Elise over at Simply Recipes a few months ago. This version used Pilsner-Urquell and maple syrup, and I served it with wild blackberries that had been sitting in my elderberry syrup all day. Love it.
Everyone did, and it was good to see food and wine bind us together this way. Politically we are all over the map: Jennifer the vegan; Sarah the California Waterfowl Association staffer and her husband Aaron, who has gone vegetarian in the past; Jim Who Eats Everything and his wife Ellen, who has been the resident vegetarian at our parties over the years; plus Holly and I. This is the way politics used to be done: Over dinner and drinks.
We are not going to agree with Jennifer on a host of things, but after eating at the same table, nor are we going to see each other as cardboard demons to be burned from a distance. We will fight our battles, mostly (but not always) on opposite sides, and at the end share a drink and razz each other over our little victories. This used to be normal. I pray it becomes so again.
I had a rough time making a seven course meal for some friends that were mostly vegetarian with only a little fish. Going full vegan? That’s very impressive stuff!
Loving this post.
A few other things:
1) Amused that you use the word “grrrl”
2) Vegangelical = awesome
3) Menu looks out of this world good. Very intrigued by your herb salad in particular.
That menu sounds great. Good of you to do it all vegan. I’m no gourmet chef, but I do love cooking vegan food!
This was one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. I’ll be telling the story about my seven-course vegan meal at the hunters’ house for a long, long time.
I will be writing a story for our web site this week, wherein I am likely to point out that the vegan-to-hunter ratio here in California is a lot closer to 1:1 than the US more broadly. Holly has thrown down the stats gauntlet and this economist cannot resist a rebuttal…
Thanks again to Hank and Holly, and to the other fine guests. Next time, my house.
In the past I have said I would never do this or do that, only to do that thing in the future. Never say never, hunter-man. It’s amazing how we can shift our viewpoints over the years if we are open to hearing others. I applaud you for letting Jennifer into your life.
Very sensible decision to use foods that are naturally vegetable-based rather than trying to “veganize” typical Western dishes.
Generations of Mediterranean folks have discovered how to bring out the best in fresh seasonal produce, and your Mediterranean-style menu really reflects this. (The Sicilian sun-dried zucchini sounds particularly tempting!)
It was a fabulous meal, each course divine, and the whole a thought provoking happening. Thanks so much for inviting us Hank.
Talk about extending the olive branch – Kudos to the hunter for showing the world how peace happens! His vegan culinary creations sound delicious and are heightened by his thoughtful perseverance in his preparing an 8-course vegan meal for fellow meat eaters, vegetarians and the lone star vegan “trooper.” Clearly the host invited respect and open-mindedness as the good cheer and nourishment abounded.
Fantastic menu! I have to admit, I would seriously miss the dairy and eggs, at the very least. I have a few friends who are vegetarians, and at least one who is vegan. Fortunately, none are particularly “preachy” about the eating habits of those of us who are non-vegetarian. I generally try to include at least one meat free dinner per week, but I don’t think I could eliminate my dairy and eggs. A life without cheese would be very sad indeed…
Very cool. I’ll keep my tongue on the politics.
Another vote for the Vegangelical comment!
Jennifer, I look forward to seeing your stats – I’m well aware that the percentage of the population that hunts is lower in California than it is nationwide. And I’ve assumed that the vegan/vegetarian numbers are higher, though I haven’t seen a state-by-state breakdown, just the Vegetarian Times’ national survey.
Thanks to Garrett and Josh re “vegangelical.” And I’ll add that, to Jennifer’s credit, she didn’t do a great deal of vegangelizing Saturday night – though she did have some pamphlets for us. I think everyone at the table understood that there would not be any conversions taking place.
And yes, the dinner was terrific. But I just had some of the leftover porcini sugo, and I freely admit that I was pleased to top it this time with some Parmesan cheese.
I agree with the “never say never”: you could end up a Buddhist monk with shaved head in your dotage. Could happen!
Wait, I should clarify: The pamphlets were about hunting – from the Humane Society of the U.S. – not about veganism.
I am impressed – hard to cook without dairy or eggs indeed. And that meal looks good enough for anybody. But i will quibble – in a tiny voice so Jennifer can’t hear me: the yeast in the beer doesn’t count as animal? Just wondering…
I’m a vegetarian (not vegan) and I look forward to trying the dishes you posted here. Some of my favorite veggie dishes are prepared by the Bay Area’s Cafe Gratitude. If you plan any future vegan meals, do check out their cookbook for some creative uses of nut milks and other ingredients that make for some very hearty meals. Their almond and cashew milk “ice cream” and “cheese” is incredible.
Hank – you could be on this show… and win!
http://www.ecorazzi.com/2009/07/30/zooey-deschanel-challenges-the-top-chef-masters-to-a-delicious-vegan-meal/
Oh, and Sylvie, yeast is in the fungi kingdom, not the animalia kingdom, so it is totally in-bounds! Thank goodness… if I had to do without bread also, I’m not sure I could.
mea culpa, Jennifer (and Hank!), I got my kingdoms mixed up.
Thanks for the correction, Jennifer.
well fucking hell hank, come on out to long island and be my chef for a day
Thanks, all, for the votes of confidence!
Jennifer: As for the show, I am pretty startled to see professionals balk at vegan/vegetarian meals. I mean really, how damn hard is it?
Valerie: Yeah, I do want to work more with almond milks, as they are pretty traditional in Mediterranean cooking.
Laura: Yeah, yeah, never say never… ohmmm… ohmmm…. Maybe I can learn to throat sing like those Tibetans do.
I find it interesting (read amusing) that Jennifer would declare this meal “one of the best I have ever eaten” while Hank laments over the absence of cheese. If he’s so impressive in his first all-vegan menu, imagine what the rest of Hank’s food tastes like when he’s allowed to use animal products. Come to the dark side all ye vegans and experience the magic of meat… and cheese… and butter… and fat.
Any converts? I didn’t think so.
Thanks, one of the best and most fun posts I’ve read on this site yet. This line – “This used to be normal. I pray it becomes so again.” – really nails the point home, one I agree with heartily.
Any good cook loves a challenge, right?
Good vegan cooking is, in my experience, all about getting creative with the “oomph” – nuts, tahini, avocado, etc, all go a long way.
Your walnut vinagrette sounds perfect, care to post a recipe? Is the herb salad herbs only?
Andy: Thanks for the kind words! And yes, I love challenges — it focuses the mind.
Here is the recipe for both the salad and vinaigrette. Enjoy!
great menu! Our first catering job was was a mix of carnivores and vegans. it’s amazing how much thought has to go into vegan food preparation. But, we still get comments on much everyone loved our meal.
Vegan – Old Russian word that loosely translates to – He who hunts poorly.
I’m with you, Hank. I’ll never be vegan, and almost certainly never vegetarian, but I like my meat to come from the more moral end of the spectrum, and therefore I applaud what you do.
We almost never eat meals that are meat-centric, but we’ll have some (homemade) chicken or lamb broth here, lardons of bacon there, chuck widely dispersed in hearty stews during the winter, and of course plenty of eggs and cream. What interests me is when I end up making a meal and suddenly realize as I’m eating it that it’s vegan. Doesn’t happen often, I can tell you, but I enjoy them nonetheless. Rice noodles with spicy peanut sauce and whatever vegetables are coming in from the garden (most recently chard, cherry toms, snow peas and zucchini). Pizza topped just with thinly shaved potatoes, tossed with rosemary, olive oil, and salt – no sauce needed and purple potatoes look awesome. Or a good old peanut butter and jelly sandwich on homemade multigrain bread. Always takes me by surprise, when a vegan meal slips into my life.
I feel your pain as we get a couple in once in a while that are raw food vegans. They called last night and wanted a five course meal tomorrow.
I agree completely with the desire to avoid “vegan-izing” recipes. I have ties to a college co-op where the meals are frequently vegan. The best meals are the ones that don’t try to hide their nature. The worst are the ones that involve processed soy products.
As a vegetarian who reads this blog all the time and loves it, this post was so fun! I love reading about people appreciating food, whether that be meat or otherwise, and food is certainly celebrated here!
(and I would miss cheese like crazy, too)
Hey ya’ll, I finally wrote my take on the evening. It’s posted on the HSUS web site at: http://www.hsus.org/about_us/offices_and_affiliates/staff/dinner_in_the_lions_den.html
We don’t have the ability for comments on our site, sadly, but feel free to post any here and I’ll stop back by to see them.
Well I guess I could tolerate a vegan menu as long as I had a dirty martini to start AND several choices of wines as the meal progressed. Smart of you.
Using more olive oil in the pasta dough and letting it sit 30 min should take care of the brittleness.
that menu is amazing! beautiful vegan food. i am sure your guest was in heaven.