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I’ve always loved corned beef and its cousin pastrami, especially in Reuben sandwiches. As a child I always wondered how in the world they got the beef that pretty red color. And what in hell was with the “corned” part?
Years later, when I began to make my own sausages and salami, I occasionally came across recipes for corning beef, typically a brisket. At first I passed them by, as I don’t really buy beef.
But I do hunt deer and antelope and elk – and that might as well be beef, right? So I tucked away in the back of my mind the idea that I would make corned venison with a big leg roast. Someday.
That was in 2007, which also happened to be the last time I shot a deer; I killed two pronghorn antelope on that trip, too, and must say that I prefer these odd prairie goats to deer — mild and lamb-like, with an aroma almost floral. For those of you who hunt antelope, know that you need to get them chilled down as fast as humanly possible because, being high-strung and jumpy, antelope run hot. Add to this the fact that antelope hide holds in that heat like nobody’s bid-nez and you have a recipe for stanky, spoiled meat if you don’t watch out. Fortunately I had an understanding guide.
I digress. I never made corned antelope or venison that fall. Slipped my mind. (I did make a bresaola out of the backstrap of one of the ‘lopes that was fantastic even a year later, though.) Fast forward to a few weeks ago — and I think you know where I am going with this — and I find this hunk o’antelope buried in my box freezer. It was more than a year old. Thank heaven for vacuum sealers.
I opened the package and soon realized that the antelope was little worse for wear. Smelled OK, texture was fine. A tangent: Holly and I shot quite a few ducks and geese this year and I have been planning (hopefully) clever ways to prepare them, and I thought I’d make corned goose breast. Why not? OK, so that’s the reason I was again thinking about corning meat. This antelope roast was a sign: Do it now. So I did.
In the process, I learned a lot about ”corning.” Corn, as many of you might know, is what the old English called any grain. And back in the 17th century (or possibly earlier), the rock salt used to cure the beef was known as corns, as they were about the size of grains of grain. I suspect that we still call it “corned beef” because it just sounds better than “pickled beef.” Calling it pickled meat evokes the spectre of pickled pig’s feet, and even I turn my nose up at that one.
I used as a point of departure a recipe in Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn’s Charcuterie, a book I highly recommend when starting to learn the craft. Know that the essence of corning is curing the meat in brine. That’s it — you are preserving the meat in a salt pickle. Everything else is nuance.
Do you add flavorings to the brine? Yes, you do; it’s what makes your corned meat different from mine. Do you add sugar? Probably, as it softens the salty twang of a salt-only brine. Do you add nitrite? Yes. And this is where I defend the stuff: Nitrites are what give you that pretty rose color. Nitrites add flavor. And most importantly, nitrites defeat botulism, which is among the most toxic substances known to man.
Can you make corned meat without nitrites? Yes. But it will look gray, lack the proper flavor — and you will have a small-but-real possibility of dancing with your new friend clostridium botulinum. And it will be a brief dance. Do nitrites cause cancer? Not in the levels used in modern meat. The poison’s in the dose, like a lot of things. Booze for one. Fat for another. OK, I’ve said my piece. If you hate the notion of adding nitrites to your brine, leave them out.
Back to the corned antelope. Basically you make a tea out of salt, sugar, spices and a little nitrite, let it cool and soak the meat in it. How long? Depends. How salty is your brine? How big is your meat? (Sorry, couldn’t resist.) Five days is typical, but you might need to go as long as two weeks with a big honkin’ slab of brisket. But basically this is a pretty forgiving process. Leave it in as long as you think it will take the osmotic elves to reach the center of the meat. And then leave it another day or two.
On to the cooking. Strike that. I need to tell you that once the meat is brined it is at its most stable. It is, after all, very very salty now. Should you want to save it for later, leave it in the brine in the fridge for a week or two extra. But if you are thinking about doing this, you will want a strong brine.
Now on to the cooking. All you do is simmer ye olde hunk of meat in water for many hours until it is meltingly tender. Easy, right? Sorta. Trust me on the water thing, though — there is a ton of flavor in the meat and you don’t need to muddle things with fancy broths and sauces. Here are a few tips:
- Cut a piece off the roast and fry it to test. If it is only a little too salty for your taste, submerge the meat in water in a pot not much larger than the roast itself. This will prevent the osmotic elves from leaching out too much salt and flavor into the water.
- If you screwed up and the meat is not salty enough (again, you can cut off a test morsel), add salt to the cooking water to the point where it tastes like the sea. Remember to leave the meat in the brine longer next time.
- If you think your meat is REALLY salty — if you have left it in more than a week it might be — Use a larger pot of water, and the elves will take care of things for you.
How long to simmer? At least 3 hours, and up to 6 for a slab. Check on the water to make sure it still covers the roast.
Eat your lovely corned beef — or lamb, antelope, venison, yak, nutria or whatever — in slices, hot or cold. Mustard is a must. I like sauerkraut with it , too. Don’t gild the lily, though. Simple is best here.
You don’t need to have large lumps of meat lurking in the dark corners of your freezer to make a spectacular series of sandwiches — obviously this is best with fresh meat. But know that even after this antelope had spent 17 months in the deep-freeze, after the transformation of the corning process it was so good I’d happily serve this to anyone. Really.
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CORNED VENSION
This began as one of those, “why not?” experiments that turned out far better than I had expected. So good in fact that any deer hunter out there really ought to learn this technique — you will get far more enjoyment out of the leg roasts from your venison. The technique is simple: Brine your meat, then simmer it into tenderness. It takes several days, but it isn’t labor-intensive at all. Once cooked, the meat will last a couple weeks in the fridge, if you can hold off eating it that long.
A word on nitrates. I use them, for color, for flavor and for safety. Can you do this without pink salt? Yes, but your meat will be gray and you will lose some flavor. You can buy Instacure No. 1 online.
Makes 1 3-5 pound corned roast.
Prep Time: 5 days
Cook Time: 3 hours
- 1/2 gallon water
- 1 cup kosher salt
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1/2 ounce Instacure No. 1 (sodium nitrite)
- 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
- 1 tablespoon toasted coriander seeds
- 12 bay leaves, crushed
- 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
- 1 tablespoon dried thyme
- 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 6 cloves
- 5-6 chopped garlic cloves
- A 3-5 pound venison roast
- Add everything but the roast to a pot and bring it to a boil. Turn off the heat and cover, then let it cool to room temperature while covered. This will take a few hours.
- Meanwhile, trim any silverskin you find off the roast. Leave the fat.
- Once the brine is cool, find a container just about large enough to hold the roast, place the meat inside and cover with the brine. You might have extra, which you can discard.
- Make sure the roast is completely submerged in the brine; I use a clean stone to weigh the meat down. Cover and put in the fridge for 5-7 days, depending on the roast’s size. A 2-pound roast might only need 3 days. The longer you soak, the saltier it will get — but you want the salt and nitrate to work its way to the center of the roast, and that takes time. Err on extra days, not fewer days.
- After the week has passed, you have corned venison. To cook and eat, rinse off the meat, then put the roast in a pot just large enough to hold it and cover with fresh water. You don’t want too large a pot or the fresh water will leach out too much flavor from the salty meat — it’s an osmosis thing.
- Cover and simmer — don’t boil — the meat for 3-5 hours.
- Eat hot or cold. It is absolutely fantastic with good mustard and some sauerkraut on a sandwich.
Mmm, corned beef (or whatever) on a toasted rye is just awesome. Love it with an ice cold beer.
God, that’s gorgeous… I wish I’d saved a bigger hunk of my pronghorn.
I made corned goose last fall and it is definitely worth trying. Goose hash is heavenly!
This, THIS, is why I keep coming back to Hunter, Angler, Gardener, Cook day after day.
Inspiring – it’s been put on my to-do list!
This post certainly shows why you’ve been nominated for the James Beard Award! I would never have considered attempting my corning my own beef, let alone antelope. Now, you’ve got me thinking…
Hank,
While a vacuum packer works really well for fish and fowl, for larger chunks of meat I’ve had much better results wrapping the pieces first in Saran Wrap (tightly, pressing all air out) and then in butcher paper (again, tightly and with 2 layers of paper surrounding the meat). This will keep elk, deer or antelope for a very long time with no freezer burn and no worries about the vacuum package losing integrity, letting in air, and letting your meat burn.
Good point about the vacuum sealer, mdmm! The sealer is fantastic — unless it loses its seal, in which case you need to eat the item fast. I get a few failures every year, and then it’s “Oh. Looks like we’re eating this tonight!”
Hunting acquaintance of mine when I lived in Colorado had the good local butcher convert some Antelope into Antelope pepperoni and Antelope pastrami. Was wonderful but I’ve long lost track of him and the recipe.
As for them retaining heat…don’t shoot them running or soon after running because of the lactic acid buildup you’ll get in the meat (i.e. muscles), get to them quick, dress/bleed them fast, and pack some snow in them if available or else keep the thoracic cavity propped open with sticks or somesuch, so they cool fast.
My suggestions as a hearty Antelope eater. Nothing better than a good Antelope.
Hint for people that haven’t hunted them: If you spook them, they have a habit of running but then they cool off and circle around you as opposed to flee and never be seen again. If you shoot them when they are spooked and running, even if you get to them fast, the meat is going to be less than ideal. They’re sprinters and it shows up in the muscles biochemically which reflects on the taste if you get one wrong. That’s why some people think Antelope is the most disgusting meat on the planet, they got served a portion that was hunted and handled poorly once and will refuse to ever touch any again for the rest of their lives.
Happy Hunting and Eating,
Thomas
You have the most interesting ideas for your game meat. I’ve always been stuck with stew..no wonder I’ve never liked game. I love your recipes.
Corned antelope….mmmm……
Weaseltee: Goose hash? That sounds FANTASTIC. And because I love culinary miscegenation, I’d wrap it in a tortilla – that makes it highly portable, and ideal for breakfast in the duck blind.
Fascinating. Absolutely fascinating. This is why food is so fascinating and why I am studying it (I’m a culinary school student).
Cheers!
again, just checking in to say – i loved reading this post. just wonderful. i’ll file it away in the things i’ll probably never do category – but would like to.
I found your site after trying the Duck Niederwald recipe in Field and Stream, which was excellent by the way. I’ve been thinking for a couple years now about corning a wild turkey breast, mostly because every time I breast one out they look exactly the same size and shape of a brisket and I like to try different things with game. I can’t stand the same old cooked in a crockpot with cream of mushroom soup game recipes. This site is a delight, my new favorite.
I’m going to visit family in Oklahoma in a week and I’ll be there for turkey season. Last year I shot a jake and picked 15 lbs of morels less than a quarter mile from my cousin’s back door-got any suggestions for this combo if I’m as lucky again this year?
Sounds incredible. Now I’m craving pastrami.
this is wonderful! i found your site today after hearing your interview on insight. my husband would love to start hunting, deer specifically, and just asked me the other day if we could make corned venison. now i know how! i’ll definitely be back to see what you’re making. we’re just up the hill in auburn and all about eating local and in season – i have a feeling you’ll be quite the inspiration.
I’ve always heard our domestic antelope (not really an antelope, right?) is quite tasty. Cormac McCarthy’s “No Country for Old Men” begins with a memorable (and ultimately tragic) pronghorn hunt, although the hunter is a feckless poacher and bites off more than he can chew…
[...] with corned beef. The reason can be summed up with this little blurb from Hank Shaw’s awesome site. Do you add flavorings to the brine? Yes, you do; it’s what makes your corned meat different from [...]
When we hunted antelope with my brother in law we had coolers of ice with us to put the meet into. As soon as the animal was down we quartered it out and put it right on ice. We kept the coolers full of ice for a day before cutting and wrapping. By getting it cooled so quickly it was really good meat.
Thanks for the recipe it will be awesome to try!
Well I read this and was wonderfully suprised. I have not been able to find a recipe and directions for corning as well done as this. So I ordered from the supplier you recomend and was very happy with price and delivery time. Mixed it all up tonight and put it in the fridge ( Vinison roast ) will keep you posted. Thank you.
Hi, Tonight was the night, I had put together all the ingredients to corn the venison and started the process 3 days ago. However I knew I would not be able to wait to try it so I also made a one pound batch so it would go quickly. Tonight I took out the one pound and put it in plain water and added 2 tbs. of sugar and 1 tbs pickling spice. Simmered it for three hours took it out let it rest and carved it. All I can say is I have eaten corned beef from New York to California finding the best in Cleveland Ohio. Now I’m ready to go back to Cleveland for a throwdown. This recipe ROCKS I love it. Thank you very much. ———- Bryan
Just wondering what is the time suggestion for the elves to remove the salt. I’m currently in the process of corning seven golden eyes and gizzards but I left them in for a week for the gizzards to get good and done, and the breasts are pretty salty. Just need an idea on time frame of leaving it in the water. Thanks. By the way I corn everything (ducks, antelope, geese, venison, elk, and grouse, both sage and pine grouse) and then usually continue by making half the recipe into pastrami its always awesome. This is a first for the gizzards though wish me luck.
Corned a venison quadriceps and it was outstanding – great recipe! I was a little hesitant as I normally respond poorly to nitrates/nitrites found in processed meats, but no problem with this concentration. I guess the folks at Hormels and Oscar Mayers don’t take any chances and load their meats up. Thanks again for sharing.
Marc
[...] lower quantities of live yeast in the final leaven. My dream was “wild” reuben with corned venison from the doe my boyfriend shot this hunting season and homemade sauerkraut. The sandwiches were [...]
Eating some corned Canada goose on New Years- we like it better than the venison. Started some prosciutto today too. Canada goose for the sweet and snow goose for the spicy. This site and your ideas are great Hank.
Thanks, Marc
My Dad, born in Ireland, never boiled or simmered his corned beef. We put chunked up potatoes and carrots in the bottom of a dutch oven, barely cover with water and bring to a boil. Lay the meat on top of the veggies, sprinkle with pickling spices, cover and put in a preheated 325 degree oven for 3 hours. It stays at a nice low simmer, and the meat isn’t boiled. It comes out firm and tender. Try it and let me know if you love it!
Made this without nitrite, as I’d forgotten to order it in advance and had several pounds of thawed venison to deal with in a timely manner. To counteract the “loss of flavor” associated with not using the nitrite, I used heaping measurements instead of level ones – and it worked out perfectly. The meat, though definitely not rosy pink, was delicious, just like the last time I made it (with nitrites). Very much looking forward to making reuben quesadillas for dinner!
I wonder where one would buy the Sodium Nitrate…
Mary Munroe: I use a version called Instacure No 1. I just put in some links to where you can buy it online in the recipe above.
Mr. Shaw, I was looking to make this recipe using a 2.5 lb(frozen weight) venison roast. What changes (quantities of kosher salt, instacure) would you make to your recipe?
K.rea: I would not change anything. Your roast is pretty close to 3 pounds anyway, so what I would do is cure it for less time. In your case I would go 4 days to cure, although you might get away with 3 days.
Thanks for the quick reply, looking forward to trying it.
I made this with a venison roast and cooked it on St Patty’s Day last Sat. Followed the recipe to the T. It was perfect! Authentic flavor! Trouble is it was my last roast so now we have to wait til the fall hunt to cut some more. I can hardly wait. Next time I will make 2 so we can have one to slice cold.
Hank, I am beginning to feel a bit guilty… I am always coming here to use your wonderful recipes. I appreciate the work and time you spend to develop them and then share them. Thank you for elevating my wild game culinary skills!
I always have a freezer stocked with venison and use it weekly in place of beef. We just found my youngest is allergic to beef so this cut the few times a year I’d purchase beef to none. I was wondering how good this would turn out when I came by your page … The whole family loved it and it was incredibly simple. I had never cured meat before, now I can’t wait to try it again. Thanks for sharing.
Made your corned venison a number of times and it turned out great. Just wondering if i take the corned venison after done brining i then encrust it with cracked pepper and smoke it would it then be consider pastrami? How long would you recommend smoking it? Heard you yesterday on our local radio station WHO here in Iowa.
Jason: Yep, that would be pastrami. Mix coarsely ground coriander with the black pepper for the crust. I’d smoke it for as long as you want, really. At least 3 hours, but probably not more than 6 hours, unless you are getting a really cold smoke.
love the site. Have made the corned venison several times and just yesterday cleaned about 580# of wild boar(3 different ones) My son is leaving for basic and AIT in two weeks and wanted the venison before he left. I made up aobut 8# of it and decided to add a nice wokd boat pork loin to the pan. I hope ot turns out as well as the venison. If it does i will definately be making alot more. Thanks again for the recipes.
I stopped hunting bears b/c I didn’t enjoy eating it…until I tried corned bear. Corning may be an option for Mtn goat, as well.
I have morton tender quick curing salt, could I use that instead of the sodium nitrite? it is in the salt cure..??
Gina: No, Morton’s Tender Quick is not the same thing, and I’ve never used it. BUT… I know you can make corned beef with Tender Quick, so look around for instructions on that. Sorry!
I am so excited! A friend has given me 3 or 4 bags of frozen deer meat to experiment with and this is most interesting. My question is that the meat I was given is already cut into approximately fist-sized or a little larger chunks…no idea where from on the beast…only with instructions to “braise.” These look like a roast would. Do you think I could try “corning” these due to their size? Thanks so much!! P.S. Home lactofermented sauerkraut sounds like it would be awesome with this!!!
I made this a couple weeks ago. It really was great! Thanks for sharing the recipe. Mine did turn out too salty though. If anything I probably erred on the side of brining too long, given my roast was just under 2.5 lbs. I definitely will make this again – I don’t want to lose spice/flavor at all – but I need to try to tone down the saltiness a bit. Should brining for a bit less time help this or are there other adjustments I should think of making? For a smaller roast can I get away with less salt concentration in the brine? I did scale back the instacure to the amount recommended on the package for 2.5 lbs as opposed to measuring a full 1/2 oz.
And regarding Anita’s comment, lactofermented sauerkraut IS great with this. I had some on hand and also made a loaf of sourdough rye bread and it was all fabulous.
Heather: Yes, with a smaller roast I’d drop the amount of salt, but keep the time the same. The time is more important, as osmosis does not speed up with more salt. That would be like shouting to someone who doesn’t speak English — doesn’t matter what your volume is, they still can’t understand you!
Great analogy! Thanks for the clarification. I’m definitely looking forward to trying it again. I think next up, though, is going to be Venison Steak Diane.
This is a great solution for using the roasts that didn’t get eaten last year; I much prefer it to making jerky. Thanks for spreading the word that one can do everything with venison that can be done with domestic meat. I make hams, cured sausage, fresh sausage and dry cured meats from my deer and antelope, while many of my friends suffer through stew after stew, which, frankly, is not the best use of lean meat in the first place! Also want to say I share the experience of mnmmn above that cling wrap/butcher paper is the way to go with game. I vacuum pack burger and sausage & put that on the freezer door, but everything subject to movement during freezer searches gets the butcher wrap treatment!
I just made this with a blacktail rump roast–holy crap it was good! I soaked mine for 3.5 days (blacktail roasts are about 2lbs) then turned my crock pot on high in the morning. When I came home a few hours later I got to have a corned venison sandwich for lunch. Thanks for the recipe, I imagine I’ll be doing one of these every year from now on.
i can alot of wild game, a ton of whitetails and squirl. i am looking forward to your corned vension reciepe in my next canning session. i will tell you how it turnes out.
I would like to shoot one more doe this season. if i get lucky i will corn and can the hind quarters, when i bone the quarters i will have six large sections of meat that weigh about 2 plus pounds each and are a good 2 inches thick. my question is my brine time, do i go off the size of the individual roasts or the total in meat weight?
I have always enjoyed corned beef. I used this recipe to corn a roast from a buck I shot this fall. I will never eat corned beef again because I will be making my own corned venison as often as the Mrs. will allow me to. Great recipe.